Skin science article
PURITO Green Level Recovery Cream Versus Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Eye Cream
PURITO Green Level Recovery Cream Versus Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Eye Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This barrier-repair eye moisturizer
PURITO Green Level Recovery Cream Versus Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Eye Cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Borago Officinalis Seed Oil and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Centella Asiatica Extract
Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glycerin
Squalane
Cetearyl Alcohol
Butylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Tribehenin
Stearic Acid
Behenic Acid
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Tromethamine
Spent Grain Wax
Carbomer
Caprylyl Glycol
Tremella Fuciformis Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Perilla Ocymoides Seed Extract
Hamamelis Virginiana Extract
Betaine
Beta-Glucan
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Carbomer
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Adenosine
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Asiaticoside
Asiatic Acid
Phytosphingosine
Ceramide NP
Madecassic Acid
Tocopherol
Centella Asiatica Extract, Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Squalane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tribehenin, Stearic Acid, Behenic Acid, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Tromethamine, Spent Grain Wax, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Perilla Ocymoides Seed Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Betaine, Beta-Glucan, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Carbomer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Adenosine, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Phytosphingosine, Ceramide NP, Madecassic Acid, Tocopherol
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
Cetyl Palmitate
Nylon-12
Propanediol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Propylene Glycol Dibenzoate
Persea Gratissima Oil
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil
Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide AP
Cholesterol
Morus Alba Root Extract
Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Serine
Alanine
Proline
Arginine
Threonine
Phytosterols
Sodium PCA
Glycine
Oleic Acid
Glutamic Acid
Lysine Hcl
Lecithin
Sodium Lactate
Hydrogenated Olive Oil
Euterpe Oleracea Sterols
Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
Phytic Acid
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract
PCA
Pullulan
Sclerotium Gum
Sodium Citrate
Citric Acid
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Silica
Sorbitan Oleate
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Chlorphenesin
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Cetyl Palmitate, Nylon-12, Propanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Propylene Glycol Dibenzoate, Persea Gratissima Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Squalane, Niacinamide, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cholesterol, Morus Alba Root Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Serine, Alanine, Proline, Arginine, Threonine, Phytosphingosine, Phytosterols, Sodium PCA, Glycine, Oleic Acid, Glutamic Acid, Lysine Hcl, Lecithin, Adenosine, Sodium Lactate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Phytic Acid, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Glycerin, PCA, Betaine, Pullulan, Carbomer, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Silica, Sorbitan Oleate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Phytosphingosine is a phospholipid naturally found in our skin as a building block for ceramides.. It helps moisturize, soothe, and protect skin.
Phytosphingosine contributes to your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). The NMF is responsible for hydration, a strong barrier, and plasticity. Our NMF decreases with age. Increasing NMF leads to more healthy and hydrated skin.
Studies show products formulated with NMF ingredients help strengthen our skin's barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier reduces irritation and increases hydration. Our skin barrier is responsible for having plump and firm skin. It also helps protect our skin against infection, allergies, and inflammation.
Fun fact: Phytosphingosine is abundant in plants and fungi.
More ingredients that help boost collagen in skin:
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.