Skin science article
Remedy For Dry Lips Versus Eadem Le Chouchou Exfoliating + Softening Peptide Lip Balm
Remedy For Dry Lips Versus Eadem Le Chouchou Exfoliating + Softening Peptide Lip Balm This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Petrolatum and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips. This smoothing lip moistur
Remedy For Dry Lips Versus Eadem Le Chouchou Exfoliating + Softening Peptide Lip Balm
This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Petrolatum and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips.
This smoothing lip moisturizer is formulated around Lactic Acid and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Petrolatum
Hydroxystearic/Linolenic/Oleic Polyglycerides
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate
C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate
Dimethicone
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Diheptyl Succinate
Tribehenin
Squalane
Sorbitan Isostearate
Ceramide NP
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Lactic Acid
Petrolatum, Hydroxystearic/Linolenic/Oleic Polyglycerides, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, Dimethicone, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Diheptyl Succinate, Tribehenin, Squalane, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ceramide NP, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Lactic Acid
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Diisostearyl Malate
Tridecyl Trimellitate
Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate
Polyphenylsilsesquioxane
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Synthetic Wax
Silica Silylate
Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer
Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil
Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil
Tocopherol
Microcrystalline Wax
Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters
Isostearyl Alcohol
Water
Octyldodecanol
Aroma
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Propylene Carbonate
Stearalkonium Hectorite
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Linalool
Iron Oxides
CI 77891
CI 15850
CI 19140
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate, Polyphenylsilsesquioxane, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Synthetic Wax, Silica Silylate, Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil, Tocopherol, Microcrystalline Wax, Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters, Isostearyl Alcohol, Water, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Octyldodecanol, Aroma, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tribehenin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Propylene Carbonate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Lactic Acid, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Linalool, Iron Oxides, CI 77891, CI 15850, CI 19140
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Lactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.
Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.
Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they don’t penetrate as deeply. This means they’re less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
Like glycolic acid, it can:
Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.
Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skin’s microbiome.
To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.
Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.
Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.
When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the product’s pH.
Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.
Lactic acid is truly a gentle multitasker: it exfoliates, hydrates, strengthens, and brightens. It's a great ingredient for giving your skin a smooth, glowing, and healthy look without the harshness of stronger acids.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Tribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.