Skin science article
REN Clean Skincare Evercalm Global Protection Day Cream Versus The INKEY List Retinol Serum
REN Clean Skincare Evercalm Global Protection Day Cream Versus The INKEY List Retinol Serum This calming day moisturizer is formulated around Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil and Bisabolol to calm redness and hydrate skin. This anti-aging serum is formulated around
REN Clean Skincare Evercalm Global Protection Day Cream Versus The INKEY List Retinol Serum
This calming day moisturizer is formulated around Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil and Bisabolol to calm redness and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinyl Acetate and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cetearyl Alcohol
Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
Myristyl Myristate
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Glycerin
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Triheptanoin
Cetearyl Glucoside
Myristyl Laurate
Oryzanol
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Ethylhexylglycerin
Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil
Bisabolol
Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil
Carbomer
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil
Tocopherol
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
Cinnamomum Camphora Linalooliferum Leaf Oil
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Dehydroacetate
Pueraria Lobata Symbiosome Extract
Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract
Cassia Alata Leaf Extract
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Glucose
Parfum
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Lactic Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Citronellol
Geraniol
Limonene
Linalool
Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Myristyl Myristate, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triheptanoin, Cetearyl Glucoside, Myristyl Laurate, Oryzanol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil, Bisabolol, Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil, Carbomer, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Tocopherol, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Cinnamomum Camphora Linalooliferum Leaf Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Pueraria Lobata Symbiosome Extract, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Glucose, Parfum, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Retinyl Acetate
Dimethicone
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Caprylyl Glycol
Phospholipids
Squalane
Glycine Soja Oil
Polysorbate 60
Tocopheryl Acetate
Glycolipids
Sodium Phytate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Glycine Soja Sterols
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Lactate
Polysorbate 20
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Retinyl Acetate, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Phospholipids, Squalane, Glycine Soja Oil, Carbomer, Polysorbate 60, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycolipids, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glycine Soja Sterols, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Tocopherol, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!