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Skin science article

rhode Glazing Milk Essence Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Wild Oat Hydrating Toner

rhode Glazing Milk Essence Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Wild Oat Hydrating Toner This hydrating essence is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Ceramide NP to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This hydrating toner is formulated around S

rhode Glazing Milk Essence Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Wild Oat Hydrating Toner

This hydrating essence is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Ceramide NP to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

This hydrating toner is formulated around Squalane and Colloidal Oatmeal to hydrate skin and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Coconut Alkanes

Glycerin

Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate

Polyglyceryl-10 Mono/Dioleate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Beta-Glucan

Copper Gluconate

Magnesium Aspartate

Oleic Acid

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Xanthan Gum

Zinc Gluconate

Euterpe Oleracea Sterols

Phosphatidylglycerol

Phytosphingosine

Caprylyl Glycol

Cholesterol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Carbomer

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Pentylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Sodium Phytate

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Benzoate

Chlorphenesin

Citric Acid

Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Coconut Alkanes, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Mono/Dioleate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Beta-Glucan, Copper Gluconate, Magnesium Aspartate, Oleic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Zinc Gluconate, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Phosphatidylglycerol, Phytosphingosine, Caprylyl Glycol, Cholesterol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carbomer, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Phytate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Chlorphenesin, Citric Acid

Glycereth-26

Squalane

Sorbitan Oleate

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Colloidal Oatmeal

Mel

Saccharomyces/Honey Ferment Filtrate

Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract

Sodium Hydroxide

Potassium Sorbate

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Propolis Extract

Tetrasodium EDTA

Benzoic Acid

Sorbic Acid

Water, Glycerin, Glycereth-26, Squalane, Sorbitan Oleate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Colloidal Oatmeal, Mel, Saccharomyces/Honey Ferment Filtrate, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Sorbate, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Beta-Glucan, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Propolis Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tetrasodium EDTA, Chlorphenesin, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Beta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.

It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.

On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin

The more interesting story is underneath:

Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.

A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.

It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.

This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.

Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.

Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.

Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.

Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  4. 04Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
  5. 05Dimethicone
  6. 06Glyceryl Stearate
  7. 07C10-18 Triglycerides
  8. 08Ethylhexyl Palmitate
  9. 09Lactobacillus Ferment
  10. 10Jojoba Esters
  11. 11Cetyl Alcohol
  12. 12Niacinamide
  13. 13Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract
  14. 14Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera
  15. 15Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera
  16. 16Algae Extract
  17. 17Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
  18. 18Sodium Hyaluronate
  19. 19Avena Sativa Kernel Flour
  20. 20Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side