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Skin science article

rhode Peptide Glazing Fluid Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides

rhode Peptide Glazing Fluid Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wri

rhode Peptide Glazing Fluid Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

Niacinamide

Tetradecane

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Diheptyl Succinate

Benzyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Oleate

Sucrose Palmitate

Hydroxyacetophenone

Carbomer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Hydroxide

Disodium Phosphate

Sodium Phosphate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Dilauryl Thiodipropionate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Niacinamide, Tetradecane, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Diheptyl Succinate, Benzyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Oleate, Sucrose Palmitate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dilauryl Thiodipropionate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate

Tridecyl Trimellitate

Propanediol

Sh-Polypeptide-121

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Panthenol

Proline

Tocopheryl Acetate

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Hydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Hydrolyzed Pea Protein

Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Fruit Extract

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Linseed Seed

Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer

Ceramide AP

Ceramide NP

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Glucoside

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Dilinoleic Acid

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Bisabolol

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Dipropylene Glycol

Erythritol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glucose

1,2-Hexanediol

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Glyceryl Stearate

Phytosphingosine

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Polysorbate 20

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Glycine

Sodium Benzoate

T-Butyl Alcohol

Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Lactate

Triheptanoin

Xanthan Gum

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Propanediol, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Proline, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Fruit Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Linseed Seed, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NP, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dilinoleic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Bisabolol, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Dipropylene Glycol, Erythritol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Glyceryl Stearate, Phytosphingosine, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polysorbate 20, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Glycine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Benzoate, T-Butyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Lactate, Triheptanoin, Xanthan Gum

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Benzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol with several roles: it's a preservative, solvent, and mild fragrance component with a floral scent.

This ingredient has been deemed safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%, and up to 10% in hair dyes. You'll typically see 0.5-2% in most rinse-off or leave-on products.

As a preservative, it works by disrupting the membrane of microbial proteins. This helps keep bacteria and fungi from growing in your products.

The sensitization picture is actually quite assuring as well:of nearly 71,000 patients patch tested with benzyl alcohol, only 0.21% showed a positive reaction with most of them being weakly positive.

This led researchers to conclude that benzyl alcohol cannot be regarded as a significant contact allergen.

It is worth noting this ingredient is classified as one of the EU's regulated fragrance allergens and restricted to 1% in finished products.

Labels must also declare it in concentrations above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.

At concentrations around 5%, localized redness and itching can appear as a direct irritant response and not as a true allergic reaction.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Butylene Glycol
  3. 03Glycerin
  4. 04Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
  5. 05Niacinamide
  6. 06Tetradecane
  7. 07Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
  8. 08Diheptyl Succinate
  9. 09Benzyl Alcohol
  10. 10Glyceryl Oleate
  11. 11Sucrose Palmitate
  12. 12Hydroxyacetophenone
  13. 13Carbomer
  14. 14Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
  15. 15Caprylyl Glycol
  16. 16Sodium Hydroxide
  17. 17Disodium Phosphate
  18. 18Sodium Phosphate
  19. 19Sodium Hyaluronate
  20. 20Dilauryl Thiodipropionate
Source · skinsort.com
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side