Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

rhode Peptide Lip Shape Versus Ulta Automatic Retractable Lip Liner

rhode Peptide Lip Shape Versus Ulta Automatic Retractable Lip Liner What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate Synthetic Wax Silica Trime

rhode Peptide Lip Shape Versus Ulta Automatic Retractable Lip Liner

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate

Synthetic Wax

Silica

Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate

Boron Nitride

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

C20-40 Alcohols

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Stearalkonium Hectorite

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Tocopheryl Acetate

Trigonella Foenum-Graecum Seed Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Lactic Acid

Tribehenin

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Polyethylene

Sorbitan Isostearate

Aluminum Hydroxide

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Phenoxyethanol

CI 77891

Iron Oxides

CI 77491

CI 77492

CI 77499

CI 15850

CI 42090

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate, Synthetic Wax, Silica, Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate, Boron Nitride, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, C20-40 Alcohols, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Tocopheryl Acetate, Trigonella Foenum-Graecum Seed Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Lactic Acid, Tribehenin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Polyethylene, Sorbitan Isostearate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77891, Iron Oxides, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 15850, CI 42090

Mica

CI 19140

Isododecane

Polybutene

Trimethylsiloxysilicate

Sucrose Tetrastearate Triacetate

Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil

Cetearyl Behenate

Isoamyl Laurate

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Hydrocinnamyl Cinnamate

Blue 1 Lake

CI 45410

Iron Oxides, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, Mica, CI 77891, CI 19140, CI 15850, Isododecane, Synthetic Wax, Polybutene, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Silica, Sucrose Tetrastearate Triacetate, Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, Cetearyl Behenate, Isoamyl Laurate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Tribehenin, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Hydrocinnamyl Cinnamate, Blue 1 Lake, CI 45410, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lactic Acid

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ci 15850 is the pigment color red. It is an azo dye and created synthetically.

Azo dyes need to be thoroughly purified before use. This allows them to be more stable and longer-lasting.

This ingredient is common in foundations, lipsticks, and blushes. This color is described as brown/orangey red.

It has many secondary names such as Red 6 and Red 7. According to a manufacturer, Red 6 usually contains aluminum.

Ci 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.

Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.

Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.

CI 77492 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a yellow hue to products.

Synthetically created CI 77492 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.

Ci 77499 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It is created from mixing red and black iron oxides. This helps give shades of darkness to a product.

Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.

It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.

Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.

In cosmetics, it plays many roles:

One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.

For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.

Lactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.

Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.

Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they don’t penetrate as deeply. This means they’re less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.

Like glycolic acid, it can:

Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.

Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skin’s microbiome.

To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.

Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.

Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.

When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the product’s pH.

Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.

Lactic acid is truly a gentle multitasker: it exfoliates, hydrates, strengthens, and brightens. It's a great ingredient for giving your skin a smooth, glowing, and healthy look without the harshness of stronger acids.

Read more about some other popular AHA's here:

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Synthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.

Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.

It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.

This ingredient has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.

Synthetic Waxes are straight/branched-chain hydrocarbons with no ester bond or fatty acids. That means there is nothing for the Malassezia yeast to feed on.

Tribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.

Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.

This ingredient is a combination of red, black, and yellow iron oxide pigments. This combination of colors is usually found in foundation, because it results in a "skin" color.

The EU typically uses CI numbers for colorants when applicable, such as CI 77489. In the US, iron oxides are regulated as color additives and "iron oxides" is the most commonly used name in US cosmetic practice.

A 2021 paper looked at skincare formulations containing iron oxides and found that they reduced transmission of blue light when measured optically. In simple terms, the pigment particles helped block or scatter part of the visible light spectrum in lab testing and the authors suggest this could translate into better protection against blue-light-related skin effects.

There is also clinical and experimental research showing that tinted products containing iron oxides can reduce visible light-induced pigmentation:

Please note, whether a product reduces visible or blue light depends on things like:

In the EU's CosIng database, iron oxides are only listed as a colorant. CosIng groups ingredients by their main cosmetic role, such as colorant, preservative, or UV filter.

Though studies say iron oxides can "attenuate blue light", they're describing an optical property and not an officially recognized cosmetic function.

So CosIng isn’t contradicting the research. It’s just classifying iron oxides by what they officially are: pigments that add color.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

02

Product index

Related product references

Product

rhode Peptide Lip Shape

rhode Peptide Lip Shape rhode Peptide Lip Shape ingredients explained: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate, Synthetic Wax, Silica, …

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

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