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Skin science article

rhode Peptide Lip Tint Versus Kaja Jelly Charm

rhode Peptide Lip Tint Versus Kaja Jelly Charm What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Hydrogenated Polyisobutene Diisostearyl Malate Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Polybutene Microcrystalline Wax Synthetic Wax Octyldodecanol Poly

rhode Peptide Lip Tint Versus Kaja Jelly Charm

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Diisostearyl Malate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Polybutene

Microcrystalline Wax

Synthetic Wax

Octyldodecanol

Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Tocopherol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil

Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter

Lactic Acid

Tribehenin

Stevioside

Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Disteardimonium Hectorite

CI 77891

CI 45410

CI 15850

CI 19140

CI 42090

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polybutene, Microcrystalline Wax, Synthetic Wax, Octyldodecanol, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Lactic Acid, Tribehenin, Stevioside, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Disteardimonium Hectorite, CI 77891, CI 45410, CI 15850, CI 19140, CI 42090

Water

Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone

Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2

Diglycerin

Diphenyl Dimethicone

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone

Dipropylene Glycol

Polysorbate 60

Pentylene Glycol

Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate

Squalane

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract

Phenoxyethanol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Ceteareth-20

Ethylhexylglycerin

CI 15985

CI 17200

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Butylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Parfum

Water, Diisostearyl Malate, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diglycerin, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Dipropylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Pentylene Glycol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Squalane, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ceteareth-20, Ethylhexylglycerin, CI 15985, CI 17200, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, CI 45410, CI 19140, CI 42090, Tocopherol, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

CI 19140 is also known as Tartrazine. Tartrazine is a synthetic dye used in cosmetics, foods, and medicine to add a yellow color.

Tartrazine is created from petroleum and is water-soluble.

Some people may experience allergies from this dye, especially asthmatics and those with an aspirin intolerance.

Ci 42090 is a synthetic dye created from petroleum. It is used to give a bright blue color to cosmetics, medicine, and food.

CI 45410 is a synthetic red-pigment and dye.

It often goes by both Red 28 or Red 27; manufacturers label both ingredients as CI 45410.

This dye is commonly found in makeup because it imparts a vivid color. Some types of this dye change color based on pH level and interaction with moisture:

Your skin has a natural pH of around 4.5 - 5.5.

According to the FDA, CI 45410 is not permitted for use in eye products.

Red 27 is a flourescein dye and commonly used as a fluorescent tracer in medicine.

Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.

As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.

This ingredient is a synthetic ingredient with emollient and skin conditioner used to make skincare products feel more lightweight on the skin. It helps improve slip and spreadability without feeling greasy.

Because it is high molecular weight and lipophilic (oil loving), it remains on the surface of skin.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.

In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03This ingredient is also known as cupuacu butter. It's a soft, creamy plant fat that works as a skin-conditioning agent and often marketed as the plant-based alternative to lanolin.
  4. 04The composition of this butter is dominated by oleic acid, stearic acid, and smaller amounts of palmitic, linoleic, and arachidic acids. There's also a useful dose of phystosterols.
  5. 05That fatty-acid-and-sterol combo is why this ingredient behaves like a richer cousin of shea butter: the lipids reinforce the skin's surface and slow water loss while the sterols help support the barrier.
  6. 06There's some early research too: a mouse study found cupuacu butter emulgels had antioxidant activity and a measurable photoprotective effect against UVB damage.
  7. 07Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient but those prone to congestion might prefer formulations with lower concentrations.
  8. 08Fungal acne: Cupuacu butter's fatty acids are mostly "locked up" in triglycerides that Malassezia can't easily feed on, but the yeast can slowly break these down to access the free fatty acids. Therefore, ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
  9. 09Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
  10. 10You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damag…
  11. 11Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
  12. 12It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
  13. 13This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
  14. 14This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
  15. 15In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
  16. 16Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
  17. 17Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
  18. 18Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
  19. 19It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
  20. 20One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

rhode Peptide Lip Tint

rhode Peptide Lip Tint rhode Peptide Lip Tint ingredients explained: Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Polybutene, Microcrystalline Wax (C…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side