Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

rhode Peptide Lip Treatment Versus Rohto Mentholatum Melty Cream Lip Balm SPF 25+++

rhode Peptide Lip Treatment Versus Rohto Mentholatum Melty Cream Lip Balm SPF 25+++ This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips. This barrier-repair

rhode Peptide Lip Treatment Versus Rohto Mentholatum Melty Cream Lip Balm SPF 25+++

This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips.

This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Petrolatum to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Diisostearyl Malate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Polybutene

Microcrystalline Wax

Synthetic Beeswax

Synthetic Wax

Octyldodecanol

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate

Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate

Triethyl Citrate

Tocopherol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil

Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter

Lactic Acid

Tribehenin

Stevioside

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Disteardimonium Hectorite

O-Cymen-5-Ol

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polybutene, Microcrystalline Wax, Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Wax, Octyldodecanol, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate, Triethyl Citrate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Lactic Acid, Tribehenin, Stevioside, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Disteardimonium Hectorite, O-Cymen-5-Ol

Squalane

Petrolatum

Paraffin

Paraffinum Liquidum

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate

Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate

Phytosteryl Macadamiate

Ceramide NP

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide AP

Honey

Persea Gratissima Oil

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

Dipropylene Glycol

Vp/Eicosene Copolymer

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Cholesterol

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Iron Oxides

Water

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Glycine Soja Sterols

Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate

Butylene Glycol

Royal Jelly Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Parfum

Ultramarines

CI 19140

Squalane, Petrolatum, Paraffin, Paraffinum Liquidum, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate, Microcrystalline Wax, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide AP, Honey, Persea Gratissima Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Dipropylene Glycol, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Cholesterol, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Synthetic Wax, Iron Oxides, Water, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glycine Soja Sterols, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Butylene Glycol, Royal Jelly Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Parfum, Ultramarines, CI 19140

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.

As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.

In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.

Microcrystalline Wax is derived from petroleum through a de-oiling process, then highly refined and purified before use in cosmetics.

In skincare formulations, it is used to improve texture and create a smooth, even consistency. It also helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating.

Synthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.

Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.

It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.

This ingredient has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.

Synthetic Waxes are straight/branched-chain hydrocarbons with no ester bond or fatty acids. That means there is nothing for the Malassezia yeast to feed on.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.
  4. 04As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.
  5. 05Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
  6. 06In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
  7. 07Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
  8. 08Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate is a plant-derived emulsifier and pigment-dispersing agent with a non-sticky skin feel.
  9. 09It helps products glide on smoothly and prevents oil and water from separating in a formula, making it suitable for sunscreen and makeup formulations.
  10. 10The EU inventory of cosmetics has no use restrictions on this ingredient and it is considered well-tolerated.
  11. 11This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is derived from isostearic acid.
  12. 12Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
  13. 13As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
  14. 14In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
  15. 15Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
  16. 16Synthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.
  17. 17Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.
  18. 18It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.
  19. 19This ingredient has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.
  20. 20Synthetic Waxes are straight/branched-chain hydrocarbons with no ester bond or fatty acids. That means there is nothing for the Malassezia yeast to feed on.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

rhode Peptide Lip Treatment

rhode Peptide Lip Treatment rhode Peptide Lip Treatment ingredients explained: Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Polybutene, Microcrystall…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side