Skin science article
rhode Peptide Lip Treatment Versus Yves Saint Laurent Candy Glaze Lip Gloss Stick
rhode Peptide Lip Treatment Versus Yves Saint Laurent Candy Glaze Lip Gloss Stick This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips. What's inside Key Ing
rhode Peptide Lip Treatment Versus Yves Saint Laurent Candy Glaze Lip Gloss Stick
This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Diisostearyl Malate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Polybutene
Cera Microcristallina
Synthetic Wax
Octyldodecanol
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Disteardimonium Hectorite
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Parfum
Tocopheryl Acetate
Tribehenin
Stevioside
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Sorbitan Isostearate
Lactic Acid
Tocopherol
Citric Acid
Geraniol
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polybutene, Cera Microcristallina, Synthetic Wax, Octyldodecanol, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Parfum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tribehenin, Stevioside, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lactic Acid, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Geraniol
Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Pentaerythrityl Adipate/Caprate/Caprylate/Heptanoate
Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer
Paraffin
Microcrystalline Wax
CI 45410
Sorbitan Sesquioleate
Alumina
CI 15985
Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer
Propylene Carbonate
Dextrin Palmitate
Mangifera Indica Seed Oil
Sodium Hyaluronate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Water
1,2-Hexanediol
Mangifera Indica Fruit Extract
Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
Diisostearyl Malate, Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Pentaerythrityl Adipate/Caprate/Caprylate/Heptanoate, Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer, Paraffin, Octyldodecanol, Microcrystalline Wax, CI 45410, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Synthetic Wax, Alumina, Disteardimonium Hectorite, CI 15985, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer, Propylene Carbonate, Parfum, Dextrin Palmitate, Tocopherol, Mangifera Indica Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Mangifera Indica Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.
As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.
Disteardimonium Hectorite comes from the clay mineral named hectorite. It is used to add thickness to a product.
It can also help stabilize a product by helping to disperse other ingredients.
Hectorite is a rare, white clay mineral.
Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne: In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Synthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.
Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.
It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.
This ingredient has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.
Synthetic Waxes are straight/branched-chain hydrocarbons with no ester bond or fatty acids. That means there is nothing for the Malassezia yeast to feed on.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.