Skin science article
rhode Pocket Blush Versus rhode Peptide Lip Tint
rhode Pocket Blush Versus rhode Peptide Lip Tint What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Octyldodecanol Synthetic Wax Hydrogenated Polyisobutene Cetyl Ethylhexanoate Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
rhode Pocket Blush Versus rhode Peptide Lip Tint
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Octyldodecanol
Synthetic Wax
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Kaolin
Silica
Magnesium/Potassium/Silicon/Fluoride/Hydroxide/Oxide
Glycerin
Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Caprylyl Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glyceryl Caprylate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Aluminum Hydroxide
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Water
Propylene Carbonate
Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Stearalkonium Hectorite
Ethylhexylglycerin
CI 77891
Iron Oxides
CI 45410
CI 42090
Octyldodecanol, Synthetic Wax, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Kaolin, Silica, Magnesium/Potassium/Silicon/Fluoride/Hydroxide/Oxide, Glycerin, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Caprylate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Water, Propylene Carbonate, Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Ethylhexylglycerin, CI 77891, Iron Oxides, CI 45410, CI 42090
Diisostearyl Malate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Polybutene
Microcrystalline Wax
Tocopherol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Lactic Acid
Tribehenin
Stevioside
Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Disteardimonium Hectorite
CI 15850
CI 19140
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polybutene, Microcrystalline Wax, Synthetic Wax, Octyldodecanol, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Lactic Acid, Tribehenin, Stevioside, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Disteardimonium Hectorite, CI 77891, CI 45410, CI 15850, CI 19140, CI 42090
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ci 42090 is a synthetic dye created from petroleum. It is used to give a bright blue color to cosmetics, medicine, and food.
CI 45410 is a synthetic red-pigment and dye.
It often goes by both Red 28 or Red 27; manufacturers label both ingredients as CI 45410.
This dye is commonly found in makeup because it imparts a vivid color. Some types of this dye change color based on pH level and interaction with moisture:
Your skin has a natural pH of around 4.5 - 5.5.
According to the FDA, CI 45410 is not permitted for use in eye products.
Red 27 is a flourescein dye and commonly used as a fluorescent tracer in medicine.
Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
This ingredient is a synthetic ingredient with emollient and skin conditioner used to make skincare products feel more lightweight on the skin. It helps improve slip and spreadability without feeling greasy.
Because it is high molecular weight and lipophilic (oil loving), it remains on the surface of skin.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne: In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate is a plant-derived emulsifier and pigment-dispersing agent with a non-sticky skin feel.
It helps products glide on smoothly and prevents oil and water from separating in a formula, making it suitable for sunscreen and makeup formulations.
The EU inventory of cosmetics has no use restrictions on this ingredient and it is considered well-tolerated.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is derived from isostearic acid.
Synthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.
Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.
It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.
This ingredient has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.
Synthetic Waxes are straight/branched-chain hydrocarbons with no ester bond or fatty acids. That means there is nothing for the Malassezia yeast to feed on.