Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation)

Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation) This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-

Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation)

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Isononyl Isononanoate

Isododecane

1,2-Hexanediol

Pentylene Glycol

Polydecene

Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice

Jojoba Esters

Panthenol

Glyceryl Glucoside

Acacia Senegal Gum

Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hyaluronic Acid

Lupinus Albus Seed Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Ascorbic Acid

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Tromethamine

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Agar

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Glyceryl Caprylate

Butylene Glycol

Disodium EDTA

Water, Glycerin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Isododecane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Polydecene, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Jojoba Esters, Panthenol, Glyceryl Glucoside, Acacia Senegal Gum, Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Agar, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Butylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA

Niacinamide

Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters

Xanthan Gum

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cyclohexasiloxane

Polyacrylate-13

Polyisobutene

Polysorbate 20

Hydrogenated Lecithin

C14-28 Alkyl Acid

Stearyl Alcohol

Behenyl Alcohol

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Dimethicone

Adenosine

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone

Stearic Acid

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Polyacrylate

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Centella Asiatica Extract

Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Ceramide NP

Trehalose

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Cucurbitaceae Extract

Orchid Extract

Honey Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Phytosphingosine

Ceteareth-20

Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C14-28 Alkyl Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Adenosine, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceramide NP, Trehalose, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Cucurbitaceae Extract, Orchid Extract, Honey Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Phytosphingosine, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Parfum

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is a plant-derived emulsifier whose only job is to keep the oily and watery parts of a formula blended so it doesn't separate into layers.

It's compatible with a wide-range of active ingredients and especially good at making emulsions survive heat/freeze cycles.

Typical use concentrations range from 2-3% and it works across a pH of 4.5-8.5.

This ingredient has been found safe to use in cosmetics and has a low irritation profile.

Because it's build on stearic acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. Stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that falls within the range (C11-24) that Malassezia can feed on.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 031,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
  4. 04It is a:
  5. 05Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  6. 06Emollient, helping to soften skin
  7. 07Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  8. 08Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
  9. 09Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
  10. 10Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
  11. 11Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
  12. 12Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
  13. 13Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
  14. 14Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  15. 15Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  16. 16Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  17. 17Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  18. 18Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  19. 19Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  20. 20Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side