Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Sephora Collection Targeted Dark Spots Serum Versus Selfless by Hyram Peptide Q10 & Ginger Daily Defense Antioxidant Serum

Sephora Collection Targeted Dark Spots Serum Versus Selfless by Hyram Peptide Q10 & Ginger Daily Defense Antioxidant Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Papain to fade the look of dark spots and refine skin texture. This calming s

Sephora Collection Targeted Dark Spots Serum Versus Selfless by Hyram Peptide Q10 & Ginger Daily Defense Antioxidant Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Papain to fade the look of dark spots and refine skin texture.

This calming serum is formulated around Zingiber Officinale Root Extract and Bisabolol to calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Niacinamide

Pentylene Glycol

Glycerin

Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment

Maltodextrin

Sodium Polyacrylate

Saccharide Isomerate

Papain

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Phytate

Xanthan Gum

Potassium Sorbate

Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

Water, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Maltodextrin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Saccharide Isomerate, Papain, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Phytate, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Coco-Glucoside

Xanthophylls

Bisabolol

Pentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate

Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Xanthan Gum, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Coco-Glucoside, Xanthophylls, Bisabolol, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Pentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate, Sodium Citrate

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.

Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.

The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).

Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

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Ingredients & structured notes

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Comparison edit

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