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Sesderma C-Vit Lipossomal Serum Versus NeoStrata Skin Active Triple Therapy Lifting Serum

Sesderma C-Vit Lipossomal Serum Versus NeoStrata Skin Active Triple Therapy Lifting Serum This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-ag

Sesderma C-Vit Lipossomal Serum Versus NeoStrata Skin Active Triple Therapy Lifting Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Gluconolactone to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propylene Glycol

Propanediol

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Resveratrol Dimethyl Ether

Quercetin

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Morus Alba Root Extract

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Lecithin

Alcohol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Polysorbate 20

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Chloride

BHT

Triethanolamine

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Cholate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Retinyl Palmitate

Sodium Hydroxide

Tocopherol

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Potassium Sorbate

Parfum

Citronellyl Methylcrotonate

Limonene

Linalool

Citral

CI 15985

Water, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Propanediol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Resveratrol Dimethyl Ether, Quercetin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Morus Alba Root Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Lecithin, Alcohol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Chloride, BHT, Triethanolamine, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Cholate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Retinyl Palmitate, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Parfum, Citronellyl Methylcrotonate, Limonene, Linalool, Citral, CI 15985

PEG-8

Gluconolactone

1,2-Hexanediol

Cyclopentasiloxane

Pentylene Glycol

PEG-12 Dimethicone

Acetyl Tyrosinamide

Cyclohexasiloxane

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Dimethiconol

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Polyacrylate-13

Polyisobutene

Isopropyl Myristate

Sodium Sulfite

Ammonium Hydroxide

Caprylyl Glycol

Methyldihydrojasmonate

2,6-Dimethyl-7-Octen-2-Ol

Ethyl Acetoacetate

Methyl Benzodioxepinone

Chlorphenesin

CI 17200

CI 42090

Water, PEG-8, Gluconolactone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Acetyl Tyrosinamide, Cyclohexasiloxane, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Dimethiconol, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Isopropyl Myristate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Sulfite, BHT, Ammonium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Methyldihydrojasmonate, 2,6-Dimethyl-7-Octen-2-Ol, Ethyl Acetoacetate, Methyl Benzodioxepinone, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, CI 17200, CI 42090

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.

As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.

As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.

The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.

However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a silicone used as a film forming agent.

When applied to the skin, this ingredient creates an invisible film on the surface. This film still allows oxygen to pass through, but prevents moisture from escaping. This can help condition and hydrate the skin. It also leaves a silky feel when applied.

Polymethylsilsesquioxane has not been shown to clog pores. It has been deemed safe to use up to 55%, but most cosmetics use much less.

If you have concerns about using this ingredient, we recommend speaking with a professional.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Alaria Esculenta Extract is derived from a brown seaweed called badderlocks.
  4. 04Alaria Esculenta Extract has antioxidant and hydrating properties.
  5. 05You may know this ingredient as argan oil. It has emollient and skin conditioning properties that help soften skin and reinforce the lipid barrier.
  6. 06The fatty acid profile of argan oil is roughly 45-55% oleic acid, 28-36% linoleic acid, 10-15% palmitic acid, and 5-7% stearic acid. It also contains vitamin E, sterols, squalene, and polyphenols like ferulic acid.
  7. 07Two clinical studies in postmenopausal women found that applying argan oil for 60 days significantly improved skin elasticity and moisturization (reduced transepidermal water loss and increased epidermal water content).
  8. 08Since it is high in oleic and linoleic acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Both of these fall in the C11-C24 range that Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
  9. 09Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.
  10. 10It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.
  11. 11A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.
  12. 12In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.
  13. 13You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.
  14. 14Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.
  15. 15This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
  16. 16Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
  17. 17In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
  18. 18Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
  19. 19Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
  20. 20While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

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Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

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