Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Simple Skincare Repairing Rich Cream Versus The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer

Simple Skincare Repairing Rich Cream Versus The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

Simple Skincare Repairing Rich Cream Versus The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Propanediol

Stearyl Alcohol

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Stearic Acid

Tapioca Starch

Dicaprylyl Ether

C15-19 Alkane

Caprylyl Glycol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate

Panthenol

Citric Acid

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Polyglycerin-6

Sorbitan Oleate

Cetyl Alcohol

Sorbitan Isostearate

Arachidyl Alcohol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Pantolactone

Tocopherol

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Propanediol, Stearyl Alcohol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Stearic Acid, Tapioca Starch, Dicaprylyl Ether, C15-19 Alkane, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Panthenol, Citric Acid, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Polyglycerin-6, Sorbitan Oleate, Cetyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pantolactone, Tocopherol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Polysilicone-11

C10-18 Triglycerides

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Phenoxyethanol

Ceramide NP

Polyacrylate-13

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Ethylhexylglycerin

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Laureth-12

Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Sodium Hydroxide

Water, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propanediol, Polysilicone-11, C10-18 Triglycerides, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Ceramide NP, Polyacrylate-13, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Laureth-12, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
  4. 04Persea Gratissima Oil
  5. 05Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  6. 06Squalane
  7. 07Cetearyl Alcohol
  8. 08Glyceryl Stearate Se
  9. 09Retinol
  10. 10Phenoxyethanol
  11. 11Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
  12. 12Benzyl Alcohol
  13. 13Phospholipids
  14. 14Tocopherol
  15. 15Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
  16. 16Glycine Soja Oil
  17. 17Ethylhexylglycerin
  18. 18Glycolipids
  19. 19Dehydroacetic Acid
  20. 20Polysorbate 60
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List 10% Azelaic Acid Serum

The Inkey List 10% Azelaic Acid Serum The Inkey List 10% Azelaic Acid Serum ingredients explained: Aqua (Water), Azelaic Acid, Propanediol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Tau…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side