Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Simple Skincare Water Boost Hydrating Gel Cream Versus The INKEY List Omega Water Cream

Simple Skincare Water Boost Hydrating Gel Cream Versus The INKEY List Omega Water Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium PCA and Saccharide Isomerate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturizer is

Simple Skincare Water Boost Hydrating Gel Cream Versus The INKEY List Omega Water Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium PCA and Saccharide Isomerate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and balance excess oil.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Dimethicone

Butylene Glycol

Isohexadecane

Propylene Glycol

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Linoleamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate

Stearic Acid

Sodium PCA

Disodium EDTA

BHT

Saccharide Isomerate

Sodium Citrate

Citric Acid

Potassium Chloride

Sodium Chloride

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Isohexadecane, Propylene Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Linoleamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Stearic Acid, Sodium PCA, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Saccharide Isomerate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Potassium Chloride, Sodium Chloride

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Niacinamide

Propanediol

Betaine

Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Magnesium Sulfate

Glycosphingolipids

Glycolipids

Sodium Benzoate

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Oleic Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Polyglycerin-3

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Betaine, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Magnesium Sulfate, Glycosphingolipids, Glycolipids, Sodium Benzoate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Oleic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Polyglycerin-3

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  4. 04Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  5. 05Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  6. 06Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  7. 07Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  8. 08Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  9. 09Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
  10. 10What it does:
  11. 11Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
  12. 12Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
  13. 13Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
  14. 14This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
  15. 15Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
  16. 16Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  17. 17Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  18. 18Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  19. 19Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  20. 20This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Advanced Retinal Serum

The Inkey List Advanced Retinal Serum The Inkey List Advanced Retinal Serum ingredients explained: Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Polyglyceryl-6…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

The Inkey List PHA Toner

The Inkey List PHA Toner The Inkey List PHA Toner ingredients explained: Water (Aqua/Eau), Propanediol, Gluconolactone, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice,…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side