Skin science article
Sisley Paris Sisleÿa L'Intégral Anti-Age Eye & Lip Contour Cream Versus COSRX Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream
Sisley Paris Sisleÿa L'Intégral Anti-Age Eye & Lip Contour Cream Versus COSRX Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formul
Sisley Paris Sisleÿa L'Intégral Anti-Age Eye & Lip Contour Cream Versus COSRX Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Snail Secretion Filtrate and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Glyceryl Myristate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Water
Rosa Centifolia Flower Water
Stearyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Isopropyl Palmitate
Panthenol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Caffeine
Cedrus Atlantica Bark Extract
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Bisabolol
Saccharide Hydrolysate
Adenosine
Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract
Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
Passiflora Edulis Fruit Extract
Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Ceteareth-33
Butylene Glycol
Carbomer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Pentylene Glycol
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan Isostearate
Citric Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
BHT
Water, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Myristate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Water, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Isopropyl Palmitate, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Caffeine, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Bisabolol, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Adenosine, Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Passiflora Edulis Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ceteareth-33, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, BHT
Snail Secretion Filtrate
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Palmitic Acid
Arginine
Stearic Acid
Betaine
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Sodium Polyacrylate
Allantoin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Xanthan Gum
Myristic Acid
Copper Tripeptide-1
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Snail Secretion Filtrate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Water, Palmitic Acid, Arginine, Carbomer, Stearic Acid, Betaine, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, Myristic Acid, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!