Skin science article
Skin Inc Ceramide Serum Versus The INKEY List Collagen Peptide Serum
Skin Inc Ceramide Serum Versus The INKEY List Collagen Peptide Serum This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Ceramide EOP and Ceramide Ns to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-
Skin Inc Ceramide Serum Versus The INKEY List Collagen Peptide Serum
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Ceramide EOP and Ceramide Ns to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Pentylene Glycol
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Alcaligenes Polysaccharides
Algin
Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Polysorbate 80
Carbomer
Titanium Dioxide
Titanium/Titanium Dioxide
Phenoxyethanol
Potassium Hydroxide
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Algin, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Polysorbate 80, Carbomer, Titanium Dioxide, Titanium/Titanium Dioxide, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Hydroxide
Propanediol
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Sodium Phytate
Citric Acid
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Lactate
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate
Polysorbate 20
Polysorbate 60
Disodium Phosphate
Sodium Phosphate
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Phytate, Citric Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Carbomer, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!