Skin science article
SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Pure Cloud Bubble Toner
SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Pure Cloud Bubble Toner This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This calming toner is formulated around Niacinami
SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Pure Cloud Bubble Toner
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
This calming toner is formulated around Niacinamide and Portulaca Oleracea Extract to calm redness and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Glycerin
Pentylene Glycol
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Niacinamide
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
PEG-50 Shea Butter
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Squalane
Carbomer
1,2-Hexanediol
Tromethamine
Panthenol
Sodium Carbomer
Erythritol
Trehalose
Betaine
Butylene Glycol
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Adenosine
Lavandula Spica Flower Oil
Xanthan Gum
Ozonized Olive Oil
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Orange Roughy Oil
Madecassoside
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Asiaticoside
Malt Extract
Asiatic Acid
Butter Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Leaf Extract
Ceramide AP
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Linoleic Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Linolenic Acid
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Niacinamide, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, PEG-50 Shea Butter, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Squalane, Carbomer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tromethamine, Panthenol, Sodium Carbomer, Erythritol, Trehalose, Betaine, Butylene Glycol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Adenosine, Lavandula Spica Flower Oil, Xanthan Gum, Ozonized Olive Oil, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Orange Roughy Oil, Madecassoside, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Asiaticoside, Malt Extract, Asiatic Acid, Butter Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Leaf Extract, Ceramide AP, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Linoleic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Linolenic Acid
Water
Dipropylene Glycol
Propanediol
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil
Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil
Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
C12-14 Pareth-12
Sodium Citrate
Citric Acid
Disodium EDTA
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Nephrite Powder
Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, C12-14 Pareth-12, Panthenol, Sodium Citrate, Adenosine, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Nephrite Powder, Ethylhexylglycerin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.