SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum SPF50+ PA++++ Versus Paula's Choice Calm Barrier Protect Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30

SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum SPF50+ PA++++ Versus Paula's Choice Calm Barrier Protect Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at SPF 30.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dibutyl Adipate

Propanediol

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol

Niacinamide

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Caprylyl Methicone

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Butylene Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Behenyl Alcohol

Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Decyl Glucoside

Tromethamine

Carbomer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Xanthan Gum

Centella Asiatica Extract

T-Butyl Alcohol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Betula Platyphylla Japonica Bark Extract

Tocopherol

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract

Brassica Oleracea Italica Sprout Extract

Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract

Eruca Sativa Leaf Extract

Medicago Sativa Extract

Triticum Vulgare Sprout Extract

Inositol

Hyaluronic Acid

Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Niacinamide, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylyl Methicone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Behenyl Alcohol, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Decyl Glucoside, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, Centella Asiatica Extract, T-Butyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Bark Extract, Tocopherol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Sprout Extract, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Eruca Sativa Leaf Extract, Medicago Sativa Extract, Triticum Vulgare Sprout Extract, Inositol, Hyaluronic Acid

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Titanium Dioxide

Zinc Oxide

Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene

Polyester-8

Aluminum Stearate

C15-19 Alkane

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Silica

Trehalose

Inulin

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Alumina

Glyceryl Caprylate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Diheptyl Succinate

Allantoin

Sodium Polyacrylate

Sodium Hydroxide

Acacia Senegal Gum

Sodium Citrate

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Glyceryl Stearate

Lecithin

Glyceryl Oleate

Citric Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene, Glycerin, Polyester-8, Aluminum Stearate, C15-19 Alkane, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Silica, Trehalose, Inulin, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Alumina, Glyceryl Caprylate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Diheptyl Succinate, Xanthan Gum, Allantoin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Hydroxide, Acacia Senegal Gum, Sodium Citrate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Lecithin, Glyceryl Oleate, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.

That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.

These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.

Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.

Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.

Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:

So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.

Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:

Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.

Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.

It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.

On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.

Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.

But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.

Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).

The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).

In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.

Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.

Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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