Skin science article
SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum UV Broad Spectrum SPF 50 Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+
SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum UV Broad Spectrum SPF 50 Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+ This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging. This chemical s
SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum UV Broad Spectrum SPF 50 Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+
This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging.
This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.7%
Homosalate 13.6%
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 4.5%
Octocrylene 9%
Water
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Propanediol
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate
C20-22 Alcohols
Panthenol
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylyl Methicone
Pentylene Glycol
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Cetyl Alcohol
Vp/Eicosene Copolymer
Glyceryl Stearate
Tromethamine
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Silica
Butylene Glycol
Centella Asiatica Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopherol
Glycerin
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Hyaluronic Acid
Oryza Sativa Extract
Avena Sativa Meal Extract
Glycine Max Seed Extract
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.7%, Homosalate 13.6%, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 4.5%, Octocrylene 9%, Water, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Propanediol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate, C20-22 Alcohols, Panthenol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Methicone, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetyl Alcohol, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Tromethamine, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Silica, Butylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Glycerin, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Oryza Sativa Extract, Avena Sativa Meal Extract, Glycine Max Seed Extract
Oryza Sativa Seed Water
Dibutyl Adipate
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Drometrizole Trisiloxane
Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Methylpropanediol
Carbomer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Xanthan Gum
Polyether-1
Polyquaternium-51
Beta-Glucan
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Inositol
Ferulic Acid
Citric Acid
Ceramide NP
Phytosphingosine
Rice Amino Acids
Rice Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Water, Oryza Sativa Seed Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Tromethamine, Panthenol, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Silica, Caprylyl Methicone, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Propanediol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Methylpropanediol, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Polyether-1, Polyquaternium-51, Beta-Glucan, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Inositol, Tocopherol, Ferulic Acid, Citric Acid, Ceramide NP, Phytosphingosine, Rice Amino Acids, Rice Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butyloctyl Salicylate is a chemical UV filter structurally similar to octisalate. It is a photostabilizer, SPF booster, emollient and solvent. This ingredient helps evenly spread out ingredients.
According to a manufacturer, it is suitable for pairing with micro Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, and pigments.
Photostabilizers help stabilize UV-filters and prevents them from degrading quickly.
Caprylyl Methicone is a synthetic and lightweight silicone fluid. It gives products a silky, dry-touch finish without the heaviness of pure oils.
Though the EU CosIng Database lists this ingredient as a skin conditioner, it is also used for sensory reasons. It spreads easily, cuts greasiness, and reduces tackiness.
This ingredient is volatile which means it will mostly evaporate (but it evaporates slower than older cyclomethicones, like Cyclotetrasiloxane).
Typical concentration ranges from 1-30% depending on if it's being used to tweak the feel of a product or acting as the main emollient.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a silicone used as a film forming agent.
When applied to the skin, this ingredient creates an invisible film on the surface. This film still allows oxygen to pass through, but prevents moisture from escaping. This can help condition and hydrate the skin. It also leaves a silky feel when applied.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane has not been shown to clog pores. It has been deemed safe to use up to 55%, but most cosmetics use much less.
If you have concerns about using this ingredient, we recommend speaking with a professional.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!