SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Teca Plumping Ampoule Versus Torriden Dive-In Low-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum

SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Teca Plumping Ampoule Versus Torriden Dive-In Low-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum

This hydrating ampoule is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

This hydrating serum is formulated around Panthenol and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Methylpropanediol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Centella Asiatica Extract

Methyl Gluceth-20

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Butylene Glycol

Octyldodeceth-16

Sodium Acrylic Acid/Ma Copolymer

Arginine

Carbomer

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Hexyldecyl Ethylhexanoate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydrogenated Lecithin

C12-13 Alketh-9

Adenosine

Sodium Phytate

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Caprylyl Glycol

Ethoxydiglycol

Trehalose

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Musa Sapientum Flower Extract

Pentylene Glycol

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract

Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract

Octyldodecanol

Asiaticoside

Ceramide NP

Glycolipids

Madecassic Acid

Asiatic Acid

Fructooligosaccharides

Cyperus Rotundus Root Extract

Tocopherol

Collagen

Glycine

Beta-Glucan

Glutamic Acid

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Glutathione

Resveratrol

Madecassoside

Soluble Collagen

Ferulic Acid

Sodium Chloride

Mannose

Copper Tripeptide-1

Polyglutamic Acid

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Glucose

Citric Acid

Hexapeptide-9

Water, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Methylpropanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Methyl Gluceth-20, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Butylene Glycol, Octyldodeceth-16, Sodium Acrylic Acid/Ma Copolymer, Arginine, Carbomer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Hexyldecyl Ethylhexanoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C12-13 Alketh-9, Adenosine, Sodium Phytate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Trehalose, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Musa Sapientum Flower Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Octyldodecanol, Asiaticoside, Ceramide NP, Glycolipids, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Fructooligosaccharides, Cyperus Rotundus Root Extract, Tocopherol, Collagen, Glycine, Beta-Glucan, Glutamic Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glutathione, Resveratrol, Madecassoside, Soluble Collagen, Ferulic Acid, Sodium Chloride, Mannose, Copper Tripeptide-1, Polyglutamic Acid, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Glucose, Citric Acid, Hexapeptide-9

Dipropylene Glycol

Panthenol

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Allantoin

Ectoin

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

2,3-Butanediol

Betaine

Propanediol

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract

Malachite Extract

Cholesterol

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Pvm/Ma Copolymer

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Xanthan Gum

Tromethamine

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Ectoin, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, 2,3-Butanediol, Trehalose, Betaine, Propanediol, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Madecassoside, Madecassic Acid, Ceramide NP, Beta-Glucan, Malachite Extract, Cholesterol, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Xanthan Gum, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Beta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.

It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.

On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin

The more interesting story is underneath:

Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.

A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.

It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.

This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.

Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Madecassic Acid is one of the four star actives in Centella Asiatica. In skincare, it earns its keep as a calming and repairing ingredient.

It works through the same core pathways as the rest of the centella family.

First, it turns down inflammation so it helps with things like redness and general upset skin.

Second, it acts as an antioxidant which means it helps protect skin from daily stress and damage.

And third, it nudges the skin to make more collagen and rebuild its support structure.

That combination is why the whole Centella family is known for calming skin, strengthening the barrier, fading redness, and giving anti-aging benefits.

It's worth being honest about the evidence here; a lot of the strongest data is on the full extract or a Madecassoside/Asiaticoside rather than Madecassic Acid alone. Reviewers also note more long-term clinical trials are needed to confirm the full potential.

Concentration-wise, this ingredient is rarely used pure and usually shows up as part of a standardized centella extract where reported content ranges from 0.02-3.06%.

Finished products typically run somewhere in the 0.1-10% range depending on the format.

In real-world tolerance tests, a repeat-insult patch test on an eye lotion with 0.2% Centella extract showed no irritation or allergic contact dermatitis in 54 subjects. And a mascara with 0.5% Madecassoside caused neither irritation nor sensitization in 109 subjects.

Allergy risk is very low, but not zero. Centella and its constituents are classified as weak contact sensitizers and some rare cases of allergic contact dermatitis exist.

Madecassoside is one of four active compounds found in Centella asiatica and is one of the main reasons Centella is so effective at calming irritated skin and supporting the moisture barrier.

There's a solid body of peer-reviewed research backing Madecassoside for several skin benefits. Studies have found:

Madecassoside pairs well with other hydrating or antioxidant ingredients like Ascorbic Acid or Hyaluronic Acid.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Trehalose is a disaccharide made of two glucose molecules (glucose is sugar!). Trehalose is used to help moisturize skin. It also has antioxidant properties.

As a humectant, trehalose helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps keep your skin hydrated.

Due to its antioxidant properties, trehalose may help with signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, unstable molecules that may damage your skin.

In medicine, trehalose and hyaluronic acid are used to help treat dry eyes.

Some animals, plants, and bacteria create trehalose as a source of energy to survive freeze or lack of water.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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