Skin science article
SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Eye Complex Versus First Aid Beauty Skin Lab Retinol Eye Cream with Triple Hyalurionic Acid
SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Eye Complex Versus First Aid Beauty Skin Lab Retinol Eye Cream with Triple Hyalurionic Acid This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots. This
SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Eye Complex Versus First Aid Beauty Skin Lab Retinol Eye Cream with Triple Hyalurionic Acid
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Dimethicone
Isohexadecane
Paraffin
Propylene Glycol
Silica
Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
Hexyl Laurate
Nylon-12
Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Methylsilanol/Silicate Crosspolymer
Polyethylene
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Octyldodecanol
Phenoxyethanol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
PEG-6 Isostearate
Triethanolamine
Sodium Citrate
Methylparaben
Chlorphenesin
Caffeine
Titanium Dioxide
Ethylparaben
Menthoxypropanediol
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone
Pentasodium Pentetate
Aluminum Hydroxide
Stearic Acid
Hesperetin Laurate
N-Hydroxysuccinimide
Dipeptide-2
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Chrysin
Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Isohexadecane, Paraffin, Propylene Glycol, Silica, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Hexyl Laurate, Nylon-12, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Methylsilanol/Silicate Crosspolymer, Polyethylene, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octyldodecanol, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, PEG-6 Isostearate, Triethanolamine, Sodium Citrate, Methylparaben, Chlorphenesin, Caffeine, Titanium Dioxide, Ethylparaben, Menthoxypropanediol, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Pentasodium Pentetate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid, Hesperetin Laurate, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Chrysin
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Squalane
Glyceryl Stearate
Butylene Glycol
Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
Polysorbate 20
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Retinol
Ceramide Ng
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Tocopherol
Allantoin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Atelocollagen
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Linoleic Acid
Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides
Palmitic Acid
Oleic Acid
Triolein
Cholesterol
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Lecithin
Sodium Polyacrylate
Polysilicone-11
Xanthan Gum
Caprylyl Glycol
Mica
Ethylhexylglycerin
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-12 Olefin)
Stearyl Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Steareth-30
Dipropylene Glycol
Tin Oxide
Citric Acid
CI 77891
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Glycerin, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Polysorbate 20, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Retinol, Caffeine, Ceramide Ng, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tocopherol, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Atelocollagen, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Linoleic Acid, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Palmitic Acid, Oleic Acid, Stearic Acid, Triolein, Cholesterol, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Lecithin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Polysilicone-11, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Mica, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-12 Olefin), Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyethylene, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Steareth-30, Dipropylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Tin Oxide, Citric Acid, CI 77891
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.
Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.
Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.
Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polyethylene is a synthetic ingredient that helps the skin retain moisture. It is a polymer.
It is also typically used within product formulations to help bind solid ingredients together and thicken oil-based ingredients. When added to balms and emulsions, it helps increase the melting point temperature.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!