Skin science article
SkinCeuticals P-Tiox Wrinkle Modulating Peptide Serum Versus PCA Skin Exlinea Pro Peptide Serum
SkinCeuticals P-Tiox Wrinkle Modulating Peptide Serum Versus PCA Skin Exlinea Pro Peptide Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin t
SkinCeuticals P-Tiox Wrinkle Modulating Peptide Serum Versus PCA Skin Exlinea Pro Peptide Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Octapeptide-3 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Niacinamide
Gluconolactone
Butylene Glycol
PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin
Alcohol Denat.
Pentylene Glycol
Methyl Gluceth-20
Glycerin
Potassium Hydroxide
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Salicylic Acid
Chlorphenesin
Phytic Acid
Adenosine
Sodium Benzoate
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Water, Niacinamide, Gluconolactone, Butylene Glycol, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Pentylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Salicylic Acid, Chlorphenesin, Phytic Acid, Adenosine, Sodium Benzoate, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Glyceryl Isostearate
Isostearyl Isostearate
C13-15 Alkane
Betaine
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Xanthan Gum
Oryza Sativa Starch
Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate
Sodium Levulinate
Caprylyl Glycol
Levulinic Acid
Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Sodium Hydroxide
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Pectin
Arginine
Proline
Serine
Glucose
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Disodium Phosphate
Polysorbate 60
Sodium Phosphate
Water, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Isostearate, Isostearyl Isostearate, C13-15 Alkane, Betaine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Methyl Gluceth-20, Oryza Sativa Starch, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Sodium Levulinate, Caprylyl Glycol, Levulinic Acid, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Butylene Glycol, Pectin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Arginine, Proline, Serine, Glucose, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Disodium Phosphate, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Phosphate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.
This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.
This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.
Methyl Gluceth-20 is a humectant. Humectants help draw moisture from the air to your skin.
It is created by combining polyethylene glycol with glucose.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!