Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

SkinCeuticals Retexturing Activator Versus L'Oreal Revitalift 1.5% Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum

SkinCeuticals Retexturing Activator Versus L'Oreal Revitalift 1.5% Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum This serum is formulated around Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment to calm irritation. This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Dipeptide

SkinCeuticals Retexturing Activator Versus L'Oreal Revitalift 1.5% Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum

This serum is formulated around Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment to calm irritation.

This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate to hydrate skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Hydroxyethyl Urea

Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid

Pentylene Glycol

Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment

Glycerin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Methylparaben

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol

PEG-60

Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Secale Cereale Seed Extract

Calcium Pantothenate

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Disodium EDTA

Chlorphenesin

Water, Glycerin, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, PEG-60, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Secale Cereale Seed Extract, Calcium Pantothenate, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Disodium EDTA, Pentylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

We don't have a description for Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid yet.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

oskia Universal Hyaluronic Acid Serum GelIngredients explained

  1. 01The flower water coming from the flowers of the Damask Rose. In general, flower waters (also called hydrosols) are diluted versions of essential oils coming from the same plant. They contain the same components but in much-reduced concentrations.
  2. 02Similar to its big sister, rose oil, rose water also has a lovely, relaxing scent. It contains some antioxidant and antimicrobial compounds, as well as some fragrant components.
  3. 03Expand to read more
  4. 04If your skin is super sensitive, it is a good idea to choose products without fragrant floral waters.
  5. 05Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product.
  6. 06It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water.
  7. 07Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying.
  8. 08One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time.
  9. 09Butylene glycol, or let’s just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product.
  10. 10BG’s main job is usually to be a solvent for the other ingredients. Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin (penetration enhancer), making the product spread nicely over the skin (slip agent), and attracting…
  11. 11It’s an ingredient whose safety hasn’t been questioned so far by anyone (at least not that we know about). BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products. BTW, it’s also a food additive.
  12. 12A sugar beet-derived amino acid derivative with nice skin protection and moisturization properties. Betaine's special thing is being an osmolyte, a molecule that helps to control cell-water balance. It is also a natural osmoprotectant, meaning that …
  13. 13It also gives sensorial benefits to the formula and when used in cleansers, it helps to make them milder and gentler.
  14. 14We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
  15. 15An easy-to-formulate, commonly used, nice to have ingredient that’s also called pro-vitamin B5. As you might guess from the “pro” part, it’s a precursor to vitamin B5 (whose fancy name is pantothenic acid).
  16. 16Its main job in skincare products is to moisturise the skin. It’s a humectant meaning that it can help the skin to attract water and then hold onto it. There is also research showing that panthenol can help our skin to produce more lovely lipids tha…
  17. 17Another great thing about panthenol is that it has anti-inflammatory and skin protecting abilities. A study shows that it can reduce the irritation caused by less-nice other ingredients (e.g. fragrance, preservatives or chemical sunscreens) in the p…
  18. 18Research also shows that it might be useful for wound healing as it promotes fibroblast (nice type of cells in our skin that produce skin-firming collagen) proliferation.
  19. 19If that wasn’t enough panthenol is also useful in nail and hair care products. A study shows that a nail treatment liquide with 2% panthenol could effectively get into the nail and significantly increase the hydration of it.
  20. 20As for the hair the hydration effect is also true there. Panthenol might make your hair softer, more elastic and helps to comb your hair more easily.
Source · incidecoder.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side

04

Ask the journal

Related questions

01How to Apply Face Serums

Skincare rules can get confusing, but when it comes to application the general rule of thumb is to pay attention to the product’s consistency. “Apply the lightest, thinnest product first and the heaviest, and more dense products last, since thinner products can’t penetrate thicker products,”says Dr. Lewis. After cleansing the face and following up with a toner, let the skin dry before using a serum. You can layer different serums on top of each other or opt for a product that has a precise mix of multiple hero ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid and vitamin C.

Source · www.skincare.com
02When and How to Use Hyaluronic Acid in Your Routine

Products with hyaluronic acid can be used in the morning or at night (or both!). Applying the hydrating ingredient at night will restore your skin’s resilience while you sleep, and applying it in the morning will leave your skin feeling plump, hydrated and ready for makeup. Hyaluronic acid is great at providing topical hydration when it’s introduced into a balanced skincare routine. According to Dr. King, it’s important to pair your hyaluronic acid products with an emollient or occlusive moisturizer to lock in hydration.

Source · www.skincare.com