Skin science article
Skinfix Barrier+ Skin Barrier Restoring Gel Cream Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides
Skinfix Barrier+ Skin Barrier Restoring Gel Cream Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
Skinfix Barrier+ Skin Barrier Restoring Gel Cream Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Squalane
Propanediol
Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters
Triheptanoin
Niacinamide
Saccharide Isomerate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Squalene
Zinc PCA
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Glycerin
Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract
Allantoin
Phytosteryl Macadamiate
Phytosterols
Acetyl Glutamine
Lecithin
Caprylyl Glycol
Amylopectin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Folic Acid
Oligopeptide-3
Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Oligopeptide-1
Oligopeptide-2
Hexapeptide-11
Tocopherol
Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract
Lactic Acid
Glucose
Acetyl Heptapeptide-4
C14-22 Alcohols
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Ethylhexylglycerin
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Potassium Sorbate
Citric Acid
Sodium Citrate
Pentylene Glycol
Sodium Benzoate
Xanthan Gum
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Squalane, Propanediol, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Triheptanoin, Niacinamide, Saccharide Isomerate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Squalene, Zinc PCA, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Glycerin, Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract, Allantoin, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Phytosterols, Acetyl Glutamine, Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Amylopectin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Folic Acid, Oligopeptide-3, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Oligopeptide-1, Oligopeptide-2, Hexapeptide-11, Tocopherol, Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract, Lactic Acid, Glucose, Acetyl Heptapeptide-4, C14-22 Alcohols, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate
Tridecyl Trimellitate
Sh-Polypeptide-121
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Panthenol
Proline
Tocopheryl Acetate
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Hydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein
Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Hibiscus Sabdariffa Fruit Extract
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Hydrolyzed Linseed Seed
Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer
Ceramide AP
Ceramide NP
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Glucoside
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Dilinoleic Acid
Benzyl Alcohol
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Bisabolol
Carbomer
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Dipropylene Glycol
Erythritol
1,2-Hexanediol
Glyceryl Stearate
Phytosphingosine
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Polysorbate 20
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Glycine
Hydroxyacetophenone
T-Butyl Alcohol
Sodium Lactate
Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Propanediol, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Proline, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Fruit Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Linseed Seed, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NP, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dilinoleic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Bisabolol, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Dipropylene Glycol, Erythritol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Glyceryl Stearate, Phytosphingosine, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polysorbate 20, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Glycine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Benzoate, T-Butyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Lactate, Triheptanoin, Xanthan Gum
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.
Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.
It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.
Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.
Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.
In skincare, glucose is typically derived from corn or other starch sources.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.
It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.
Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.
Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.
Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
We don't have a description for Triheptanoin yet.
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is used to help stabilize a product.
It is a chelating agent, meaning it helps prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This prevents unwanted reactions in products. Metal ions can come into a product via the water ingredient. They are found in trace amounts and are not known to be harmful.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.