Skin science article
Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream Versus alpyn beauty Wild Huckleberry 8-Acid Polishing Peel
Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream Versus alpyn beauty Wild Huckleberry 8-Acid Polishing Peel This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This wash o
Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream Versus alpyn beauty Wild Huckleberry 8-Acid Polishing Peel
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This wash off mask is formulated around Lactic Acid to exfoliate and smooth skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glycerin
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Olus Oil
Cetyl Lactate
Propanediol
C12-16 Alcohols
Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate
Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Palmitic Acid
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer
Squalene
Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract
Xanthan Gum
Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate
Glycine Soja Extract
Pentylene Glycol
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides
Helianthus Annuus Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Citric Acid
Phytosteryl Macadamiate
Tocopherol
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Phytosterols
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Gluconolactone
Phenethyl Alcohol
Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol
Carbomer
Potassium Sorbate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Benzoate
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Olus Oil, Cetyl Lactate, Propanediol, C12-16 Alcohols, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer, Squalene, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Xanthan Gum, Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate, Glycine Soja Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Phytosterols, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Gluconolactone, Phenethyl Alcohol, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Carbomer, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol
Hydrated Silica
Cetearyl Alcohol
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Bentonite
Vaccinium Uliginosum Berry Extract
Salix Alba Extract
Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Titanium Dioxide
Sodium Phytate
Azelaic Acid
Ferulic Acid
Carrageenan
Glucose
Arnica Montana Flower Extract
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Wax
Borago Officinalis Extract
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract
Dehydroacetic Acid
Benzyl Alcohol
Menthyl Lactate
Lactobacillus/Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Ferment Extract
Lactic Acid
Glycolic Acid
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
Citrus Limon Fruit Extract
Acer Saccharum Extract
Tartaric Acid
Malic Acid
Decyl Glucoside
Lauryl Glucoside
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Rosa Damascena Extract
Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract
Citrus Aurantium Amara Leaf/Twig Extract
Cinnamomum Camphora Linalooliferum Wood Extract
Alcohol
Vitis Vinifera Fruit Cell Extract
Isomalt
Lecithin
Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Powder
Water, Glycerin, Hydrated Silica, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Bentonite, Vaccinium Uliginosum Berry Extract, Salix Alba Extract, Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Titanium Dioxide, Sodium Phytate, Azelaic Acid, Ferulic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Carrageenan, Glucose, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Wax, Borago Officinalis Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Menthyl Lactate, Lactobacillus/Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Ferment Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Citric Acid, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Acer Saccharum Extract, Tartaric Acid, Malic Acid, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Rosa Damascena Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Leaf/Twig Extract, Cinnamomum Camphora Linalooliferum Wood Extract, Alcohol, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Cell Extract, Isomalt, Lecithin, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Powder
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is the filtered, stabilized liquid pressed from the inner gel of the aloe vera leaf.
In cosmetics, it shows up as either soothing active or a water-replacement base. It is roughly 98-99% water and the last 1-2% is an interesting mix of polysaccharides, amino acids, vitamins, minerals, and enzymes.
The polysaccharides do most of the work: they bind water at the skin surface for a light, non-greasy hydration boost. And one of the polysaccharides, glycomannan, is linked to fibroblast stimulation + collagen synthesis. This is also why aloe has such a long track record in wound and burn healing.
This ingredient is also calming with anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity, making it a great pick for sensitive, irritated, or post-sun skin.
Realistic expectations matter though; the solid evidence is mostly limited to hydration, soothing, and wound support. Deeper claims about anti-aging or sun protection are not well backed, and science reviews note it does not prevent radiation-induced skin injury.
Because it plays well with almost everything, it's commonly used as a base alongside other actives like niacinamide or vitamin C.
Typical usage concentrations range from 0.5% (where hydration benefits already show up) all the way to 90%+ (where it replaces water as the main base).
The safety for this ingredient is well-establish as well. Overall, this is a great supporting ingredient for those who want a boost in hydration.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.