Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Pore Perfecting & Refining Serum

Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Pore Perfecting & Refining Serum

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This pore-care serum is formulated around Mandelic Acid and Salicylic Acid to refine the look of pores and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glycerin

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Olus Oil

Cetyl Lactate

Propanediol

C12-16 Alcohols

Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate

Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Palmitic Acid

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer

Squalene

Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract

Xanthan Gum

Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate

Glycine Soja Extract

Pentylene Glycol

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Citric Acid

Phytosteryl Macadamiate

Tocopherol

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Phytosterols

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Gluconolactone

Phenethyl Alcohol

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Carbomer

Potassium Sorbate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Olus Oil, Cetyl Lactate, Propanediol, C12-16 Alcohols, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer, Squalene, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Xanthan Gum, Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate, Glycine Soja Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Phytosterols, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Gluconolactone, Phenethyl Alcohol, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Carbomer, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol

Propylene Glycol

Ethoxydiglycol

Polysorbate 80

Butylene Glycol

Mandelic Acid

Carnitine Hcl

Salicylic Acid

Farnesol

Glycolic Acid

Lactic Acid

Adipic Acid

Fomes Officinalis Extract

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Phytic Acid

Siraitia Grosvenorii Fruit Extract

Hamamelis Virginiana Water

Bisabolol

Pentasodium Pentetate

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Hexylresorcinol

Quercetin

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Panthenol

Urea

Isopropyl Jojobate

Jojoba Alcohol

Jojoba Esters

Retinol

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Polysorbate 20

Potassium Hydroxide

Octoxynol-9

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Prunus Persica Fruit Extract

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Extract

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract

Rose Extract

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract

Triethyl Citrate

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Coriandrum Sativum Seed Extract

Benzoic Acid

Water, Propylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Glycerin, Polysorbate 80, Butylene Glycol, Mandelic Acid, Carnitine Hcl, Salicylic Acid, Farnesol, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Adipic Acid, Fomes Officinalis Extract, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Phytic Acid, Siraitia Grosvenorii Fruit Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Bisabolol, Pentasodium Pentetate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Hexylresorcinol, Quercetin, Tocopherol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Panthenol, Urea, Isopropyl Jojobate, Jojoba Alcohol, Jojoba Esters, Retinol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polysorbate 20, Potassium Hydroxide, Octoxynol-9, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Prunus Persica Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract, Rose Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Triethyl Citrate, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Coriandrum Sativum Seed Extract, Benzoic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

This is a botanical extract from the rosemary plant (the same one you cook with). In skincare, it mostly works as a skin conditioning agent.

Its activity comes from a handful of polyphenols, carnosic acid, carnosol, and rosmarinic acid. Almost 90% of the antioxidant activity of this ingredient can be attributed to canosol and carnosic acid.

These compounds protect your skin two ways:

1) They fight off free radicals, or the unstable molecules from things like sun and pollution that age and damage skin. 2) They help calm inflammation by switching off the chemical signals that tell skin to get red and irritated.

Lab studies also suggest that rosmarinic acid may help protect collagen and slow sugar-related damage to it.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded rosemary-derived ingredients to be safe when formulated to be non-sensitizing.

Rosemary can occasionally cause allergic contact dermatitis (due to carnosol), so be sure to patch test if you have reactive or fragrance-sensitive skin.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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