Skin science article
Skinn DermAppeal Microdermabrasion Treatment Versus The INKEY List Salicylic Acid Cleanser
Skinn DermAppeal Microdermabrasion Treatment Versus The INKEY List Salicylic Acid Cleanser This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Ascorbic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin. This salicylic acid gel
Skinn DermAppeal Microdermabrasion Treatment Versus The INKEY List Salicylic Acid Cleanser
This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Ascorbic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
This salicylic acid gel cleanser is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and unclog pores.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glycerin
Oleth-20
Glyceryl Stearate
Synthetic Wax
Sodium Bicarbonate
Zeolite
Pumice
Trihydroxystearin
Water
Mentha Piperita Oil
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Ascorbic Acid
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Beta-Glucan
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Papain
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Squalane
Menthol
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Tocopheryl Acetate
Magnesium Oxide
Bromelain
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Sodium Chloride
Quartz
Camphor
1,2-Hexanediol
Limonene
Linalool
Beta-Caryophyllene
Pinene
CI 77289
Pentylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Oleth-20, Glyceryl Stearate, Synthetic Wax, Sodium Bicarbonate, Zeolite, Pumice, Trihydroxystearin, Water, Mentha Piperita Oil, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Beta-Glucan, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Papain, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Squalane, Menthol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Magnesium Oxide, Bromelain, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Sodium Chloride, Quartz, Camphor, 1,2-Hexanediol, Limonene, Linalool, Beta-Caryophyllene, Pinene, CI 77289, Pentylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Propanediol
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate
Salicylic Acid
PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate
PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
Betaine
Zinc PCA
Allantoin
Sodium Hydroxide
Coco-Glucoside
Glyceryl Oleate
Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Acid
Sodium Benzoate
Citric Acid
Dehydroacetic Acid
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Tocopherol
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Salicylic Acid, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Betaine, Zinc PCA, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Chloride, Allantoin, Sodium Hydroxide, Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Benzyl Alcohol, Coconut Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a fatty acid created by mixing similar compounds in coconut oil and dimethylaminopropylamine, a compound with two amino groups.
This ingredient is a surfactant and cleanser. It helps gather the dirt, pollutants, and other impurities in your skin to be washed away. It also helps thicken a product and make the texture more creamy.
Being created from coconut oil means Cocamidopropyl Betaine is hydrating for the skin.
While Cocamidopropyl Betaine was believed to be an allergen, a study from 2012 disproved this. It found two compounds in unpure Cocamidopropyl Betaine to be the irritants: aminoamide and 3-dimethylaminopropylamine. High-grade and pure Cocamidopropyl Betaine did not induce allergic reactions during this study.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Chances are, you eat sodium chloride every day. Sodium Chloride is also known as table salt. This ingredient has many purposes in skincare: thickener, emulsifier, and exfoliator.
You'll most likely find this ingredient in cleansers where it is used to create a gel-like texture. As an emulsifier, it also prevents ingredients from separating.
You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.
You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!