Skin science article
SKN by Lori Harvey Peptide Eye Complex Versus Versed The Fix Emergency Eye Mask
SKN by Lori Harvey Peptide Eye Complex Versus Versed The Fix Emergency Eye Mask This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles. This hydrating eye mask is formulated around Palmitoyl T
SKN by Lori Harvey Peptide Eye Complex Versus Versed The Fix Emergency Eye Mask
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This hydrating eye mask is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to hydrate skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Diheptyl Succinate
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Glycerin
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Niacinamide
Pentylene Glycol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Sorbitan Stearate
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Panthenol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Algae Extract
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Propanediol
Phospholipids
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Physalis Angulata Extract
Glucosyl Hesperidin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Allantoin
Xanthan Gum
Tetraacetylphytosphingosine
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Diheptyl Succinate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sorbitan Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Algae Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Propanediol, Phospholipids, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Physalis Angulata Extract, Glucosyl Hesperidin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Tetraacetylphytosphingosine, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Butylene Glycol
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
1,2-Hexanediol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Cucumis Sativus Juice
Coenzyme A
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract
Caffeine
Citric Acid
Ascorbic Acid
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Tocopherol
Trilaureth-4 Phosphate
Carbomer
Sodium Hydroxide
Propylene Glycol
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Saccharide Isomerate
PEG-8
Sodium Citrate
Polysorbate 20
Biotin
Sodium Benzoate
Phosphoric Acid
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Lactate
Sodium Sulfite
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Cucumis Sativus Juice, Coenzyme A, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract, Caffeine, Citric Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Tocopherol, Panthenol, Trilaureth-4 Phosphate, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propylene Glycol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Saccharide Isomerate, PEG-8, Sodium Citrate, Polysorbate 20, Biotin, Sodium Benzoate, Phosphoric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Sulfite
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!