Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Some By Mi Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum Versus MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum

Some By Mi Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum Versus MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinol and Bakuchiol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamid

Some By Mi Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum Versus MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinol and Bakuchiol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium DNA to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Cyclohexasiloxane

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Glycerin

Methylpropanediol

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Panthenol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Panax Ginseng Berry Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Root Extract

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Artemisia Capillaris Extract

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Glyceryl Stearate

Bakuchiol

Palmitic Acid

Sodium Polyacrylate

Stearic Acid

Xanthan Gum

Retinol 0.1%

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Butylene Glycol

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Adenosine

Tromethamine

Polyquaternium-51

Beta-Glucan

Cetyl Alcohol

BHT

Collagen

Myristic Acid

BHA

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Tocopherol

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Ceramide NP

Saccharomyces Ferment

Retinal

Asiaticoside

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Madecassoside

Propylene Glycol

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Glycolipids

Glycine Soja Peptide

Resveratrol

Sucrose Distearate

Asiatic Acid

Madecassic Acid

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

PEG-100 Stearate

Polysorbate 20

Parfum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Root Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glyceryl Stearate, Bakuchiol, Palmitic Acid, Sodium Polyacrylate, Stearic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Retinol 0.1%, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Butylene Glycol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Adenosine, Tromethamine, Polyquaternium-51, Beta-Glucan, Cetyl Alcohol, BHT, Collagen, Myristic Acid, BHA, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Tocopherol, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Ceramide NP, Saccharomyces Ferment, Retinal, Asiaticoside, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Madecassoside, Propylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Glycolipids, Glycine Soja Peptide, Resveratrol, Sucrose Distearate, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, PEG-100 Stearate, Polysorbate 20, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin

Dipropylene Glycol

Isopropyl Myristate

Glycereth-26

Sodium DNA

Polyglycerin-3

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Polyisobutene

Milt Extract

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Pvm/Ma Copolymer

Caprylyl Glycol

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Sorbitan Oleate

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Disodium EDTA

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Cyanocobalamin

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Ubiquinone

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Salmon Egg Extract

Atelocollagen

Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Isopropyl Myristate, Glycereth-26, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium DNA, Butylene Glycol, Polyglycerin-3, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyisobutene, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Milt Extract, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Adenosine, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sorbitan Oleate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Cyanocobalamin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Ubiquinone, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Salmon Egg Extract, Atelocollagen

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

This ingredient is also known as neem leaf extract. It contains natural compounds like nimbidin, quercetin, and other polyphenols that give it antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory activity.

Lab studies have shown neem leaf extract can inhibit acne-related bacteria and help calm skin. Animal studies on wound gels using 1-3% neem leaf extract found it sped up healing without causing irritation.

A wound-healing study testing gels with the extract at 1%, 2%, and 3% concentrations and found none of them irritated the skin.

Most commercial products also use it in a similar low range (typically under 5%).

Allergy-wise, there are some case reports on neem oil causing allergic contact dermatitis so people with plant/botanical sensitivities may want to patch test first.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.

It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.

This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.

Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 031,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
  4. 04It is a:
  5. 05Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  6. 06Emollient, helping to soften skin
  7. 07Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  8. 08Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
  9. 09Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  10. 10Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  11. 11Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  12. 12Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  13. 13Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  14. 14Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  15. 15Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
  16. 16This ingredient helps:
  17. 17Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
  18. 18As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
  19. 19Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
  20. 20Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum

MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum Ingredients in MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum Salmon DNA explained: benefits, concerns, and detailed analysis of 40 ingredients including Water, Glycerin,…

Source: skinsort.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side