Skin science article
Some By Mi Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum Versus Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum with Retinol
Some By Mi Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum Versus Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum with Retinol This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinol and Bakuchiol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This ant
Some By Mi Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum Versus Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum with Retinol
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinol and Bakuchiol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tocopherol and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cyclohexasiloxane
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Glycerin
Methylpropanediol
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Panthenol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Panax Ginseng Berry Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Ficus Carica Fruit Extract
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Root Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Artemisia Capillaris Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Elaeis Guineensis Oil
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Glyceryl Stearate
Bakuchiol
Palmitic Acid
Sodium Polyacrylate
Stearic Acid
Xanthan Gum
Retinol 0.1%
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Butylene Glycol
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Adenosine
Tromethamine
Polyquaternium-51
Beta-Glucan
Cetyl Alcohol
BHT
Collagen
Myristic Acid
BHA
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Tocopherol
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Ceramide NP
Saccharomyces Ferment
Retinal
Asiaticoside
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Madecassoside
Propylene Glycol
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Glycolipids
Glycine Soja Peptide
Resveratrol
Sucrose Distearate
Asiatic Acid
Madecassic Acid
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
PEG-100 Stearate
Polysorbate 20
Parfum
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Root Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glyceryl Stearate, Bakuchiol, Palmitic Acid, Sodium Polyacrylate, Stearic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Retinol 0.1%, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Butylene Glycol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Adenosine, Tromethamine, Polyquaternium-51, Beta-Glucan, Cetyl Alcohol, BHT, Collagen, Myristic Acid, BHA, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Tocopherol, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Ceramide NP, Saccharomyces Ferment, Retinal, Asiaticoside, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Madecassoside, Propylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Glycolipids, Glycine Soja Peptide, Resveratrol, Sucrose Distearate, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, PEG-100 Stearate, Polysorbate 20, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin
Cyclopentasiloxane
Dimethicone
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Retinol
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Bisabolol
Tocotrienols
Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane
Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract
Stearyl Dimethicone
Astaxanthin
Glycine Soja Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil
Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil
Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil
Sd Alcohol 40
Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Tocopherol, Retinol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Bisabolol, Tocotrienols, Adenosine, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract, Stearyl Dimethicone, Astaxanthin, Glycine Soja Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Sd Alcohol 40
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
This ingredient is also known as African Palm Oil. It is a plant-based emollient that is slightly occlusive leaning.
As an emollient, it helps moisturize the skin and supports the lipid barrier. Clinical testing found it improved skin hydration, reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and increased skin elasticity.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel has assessed the available safety data and found it to safe in cosmetics.
The comedogenic rating of 2/5 means it is low-to-moderate risk of pore clogging; please remember comedogenic ratings cannot predict how the overall formula will behave on skin.
Because its dominant fatty acids (palmitic and oleic acid) fall within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can use as a growth substrate, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Retinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).
It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.
That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.
Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.
Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.
Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.
Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.
The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.
Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.
In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:
That last two are worth a closer look.
A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.
Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.
So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).
It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.
The research backs this up as well.
A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.
Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).
Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.
One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.
It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.
Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.
This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.
Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.
The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.
Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.