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Skin science article

Somethinc Acne Shot Ac Overnight Treatment Spot Cream Versus Paula's Choice BHA 9 Treatment

Somethinc Acne Shot Ac Overnight Treatment Spot Cream Versus Paula's Choice BHA 9 Treatment This acne treatment is formulated around Kaolin and Bentonite to clear breakouts and balance excess oil. This acne treatment is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clea

Somethinc Acne Shot Ac Overnight Treatment Spot Cream Versus Paula's Choice BHA 9 Treatment

This acne treatment is formulated around Kaolin and Bentonite to clear breakouts and balance excess oil.

This acne treatment is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and refine the look of pores.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Kaolin

Calcite Powder

Butylene Glycol

Bentonite

Glycerin

Propylene Glycol

Salicylic Acid

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

Amylopectin

Xanthan Gum

Dextrin

Phenoxyethanol

Propanediol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Rhodosorus Marinus Extract

Thymol

Disodium EDTA

Ethylhexylglycerin

10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid

Sebacic Acid

1,10-Decanediol

Quaternium-73

Water, Kaolin, Calcite Powder, Butylene Glycol, Bentonite, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Salicylic Acid, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Amylopectin, Xanthan Gum, Dextrin, Phenoxyethanol, Propanediol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Rhodosorus Marinus Extract, Thymol, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, 10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid, Sebacic Acid, 1,10-Decanediol, Quaternium-73

PEG-75 Stearate

PEG-8

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract

Sea Whip Extract

Arginine

Polysorbate 20

Propylene Glycol, PEG-75 Stearate, PEG-8, Water, Salicylic Acid, Glycerin, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Butylene Glycol, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Sea Whip Extract, Arginine, Polysorbate 20, Disodium EDTA

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.

As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.

The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.

True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).

It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.

Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.

Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.

Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.

Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.

Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.

It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.

While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.

If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Glycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.
  4. 04It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.
  5. 05Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.
  6. 06AHAs work by breaking down the structural “glue” that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.
  7. 07Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.
  8. 08Overall, glycolic acid helps with:
  9. 09Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.
  10. 10To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (that’s where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).
  11. 11The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:
  12. 12It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.
  13. 13Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.
  14. 14If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.
  15. 15Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But don’t skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.
  16. 16Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless you’re highly sensitive, it’s well worth adding to your routine.
  17. 17Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
  18. 18Lactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.
  19. 19Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.
  20. 20Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they don’t penetrate as deeply. This means they’re less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

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Comparison edit

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