Skin science article
StriVectin Peptight Tightening & Brightening Face Serum Versus Allies of Skin Peptide & Antioxidants Firming Daily Treatment
StriVectin Peptight Tightening & Brightening Face Serum Versus Allies of Skin Peptide & Antioxidants Firming Daily Treatment This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redn
StriVectin Peptight Tightening & Brightening Face Serum Versus Allies of Skin Peptide & Antioxidants Firming Daily Treatment
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Glycerin
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Myristyl Nicotinate
PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate
Butylene Glycol
PEG-40 Stearate
Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone
Dimethicone
Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Xanthium Sibiricum Fruit Extract
Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Cyperus Rotundus Root Extract
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Cyathea Cumingii Leaf Extract
Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract
Alpinia Officinarum Root Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract
Acetyl Hexapeptide-1
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Tetrapeptide-21
Althaea Officinalis Root Extract
Helianthus Annuus Extract
Ceramide Ng
Brassica Campestris Seed Oil
Adenosine
Phospholipids
Polysorbate 80
Polyimide-1
Sorghum Bicolor Stalk Juice
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate
Xylitol
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Pullulan
Aminomethyl Propanol
1,2-Hexanediol
Glyceryl Caprylate
Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Gluconate
Sorbitan Oleate
Tocopherol
Tetrasodium EDTA
Lecithin
Xanthan Gum
Cinnamic Acid
Levulinic Acid
Sodium Levulinate
Caprylic Acid
Isohexadecane
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Parfum
Caprylyl Glycol
Maltodextrin
Poloxamer 338
Silica
Magnesium Sulfate
Phenoxyethanol
Benzoic Acid
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Citric Acid
Benzyl Alcohol
Limonene
Geraniol
Citral
Linalool
Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Myristyl Nicotinate, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Butylene Glycol, PEG-40 Stearate, Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone, Dimethicone, Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Xanthium Sibiricum Fruit Extract, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Cyperus Rotundus Root Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Cyathea Cumingii Leaf Extract, Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract, Alpinia Officinarum Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Tetrapeptide-21, Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Ceramide Ng, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Adenosine, Phospholipids, Polysorbate 80, Polyimide-1, Sorghum Bicolor Stalk Juice, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate, Xylitol, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pullulan, Aminomethyl Propanol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Gluconate, Sorbitan Oleate, Tocopherol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Cinnamic Acid, Levulinic Acid, Sodium Levulinate, Caprylic Acid, Isohexadecane, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Parfum, Caprylyl Glycol, Maltodextrin, Poloxamer 338, Silica, Magnesium Sulfate, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Limonene, Geraniol, Citral, Linalool
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Isononyl Isononanoate
Caffeine
Niacinamide
Lactobacillus Ferment
Cetearyl Olivate
Polysorbate 60
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Marrubium Vulgare Extract
Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Hydrolyzed Verbascum Thapsus Flower
Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract
Teprenone
Hyaluronic Acid
Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract
Sphingolipids
Astaxanthin
Bisabolol
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil
Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil
Honey
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Ceramide NP
Phenyl T-Butylnitrone
Glutathione
Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane
Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Ergothioneine
Carbomer
Sorbitan Olivate
Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Mica
Dextran
Sodium Hydroxide
CI 77891
Ethylhexylglycerin
Acetyl Tributyl Citrate
Sodium Glycolate
Polysorbate 20
O-Cymen-5-Ol
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isononyl Isononanoate, Caffeine, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Niacinamide, Lactobacillus Ferment, Cetearyl Olivate, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Marrubium Vulgare Extract, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Verbascum Thapsus Flower, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Teprenone, Phospholipids, Hyaluronic Acid, Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Sphingolipids, Astaxanthin, Bisabolol, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Honey, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ceramide NP, Phenyl T-Butylnitrone, Tocopherol, Glutathione, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Ergothioneine, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Sorbitan Olivate, Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Mica, Dextran, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, CI 77891, Ethylhexylglycerin, Isohexadecane, Maltodextrin, Polysorbate 80, Acetyl Tributyl Citrate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sorbitan Oleate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Glycolate, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, O-Cymen-5-Ol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is a synthetic polymer used to stabilize formulas and give products a "gel-cream" feel.
When applied, this ingredient mostly stays on the surface of skin. Safety reviews have found these polymers safe in cosmetics when made to proper quality standards. Testing also shows they’re unlikely to cause irritation or sensitization at normal use levels.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.
Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Isohexadecane is added to enhance texture, emulsify, and to help cleanse. It is an isoparrafin. It is a component of petrolatum.
Due to its large size, Isohexadecane is not absorbed by the skin. Instead, it sits on top and acts as an emollient. Emollients help keep your skin soft and smooth by trapping moisture within.
Isohexadecane is often used in products designed to help oily skin. It is lightweight and non-greasy while helping to moisturize. When mixed with silicones, it gives a product a silky feel.
Maltodextrin is a plant-derived carbohydrate made by breaking down starch (usually from corn, potato, or rice). In cosmetic formulas, it's a multitasking absorbent, emulsion stabilizer, and skin conditioner.
This ingredient is mostly used to stabilize emulsions and improve the powdery, non-greasy feel of products (like dry shampoos).
Safety-wise, this ingredient is pretty solid; it's even recognized as a food additive. Both animal and clinical studies found no adverse effects at the levels used in cosmetics.
Industry data shows this ingredient is used up to 45.7% in spray products and up to 33% in powder products.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Phospholipids are a family of skin-identical lipids that makeup the structural backbone of every cell membrane in your body.
In cosmetics, they function as skin conditioning agents with emulsifier and surfactant properties. They're typically sourced from soybean or sunflower lecithin (or sometimes egg yolk or marine sources).
Because they mirror the lipids naturally found in the deeper layers of your skin, topical phospholipids help reinforce the lipid matrix, reduce transepidermal water loss, and leave skin feeling conditioned.
They're also used to form liposomes, or tiny self-assembling vesible used to stabilize actives like vitamin c or retinol. This helps these ingredients integrate into the upper layers of skin more easily.
Phospholipids are compatible with everything and the CIR Expert Panel has concluded them to be safe at current use levels.
Some types of phospholipids include:
Polysorbate 80 is a synthetic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitol and oleic acid.
It reduces the surface tension between oil and water phases to help them stay mixed and stable in a formulation. In other words, it prevents your formulas from separating into an oily mess.
The CIR Expert Panel has evaluated the scientific data and found this ingredient to be safe, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing at concentrations up to 5% (it's even approved by the FDA as an OTC eye drop ingredient).
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sorbitan Oleate is a PEG-free emulsifier made by esterifying sorbitol with oleic acid.
You'll likely see it paired with Polysorbate 80 to create the right emulsification balance.
Typical use levels in formulas range from 2-10%.
The CIR Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as a cosmetic ingredient.
Since this ingredient is an ester of oleic acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. Oleic acid is a fatty acid that falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Tetrasodium EDTA is the salt formed from neutralizing ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid with sodium hydroxide. It is a chelating agent and used to prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps keep the product and ingredients stable.
Tetrasodium EDTA comes as a white solid and is soluble in water.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.