Skin science article
Summer Fridays Light Aura Vitamin C + Peptide Eye Cream Versus Zelens Triple Action Eye Cream
Summer Fridays Light Aura Vitamin C + Peptide Eye Cream Versus Zelens Triple Action Eye Cream This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles. This an
Summer Fridays Light Aura Vitamin C + Peptide Eye Cream Versus Zelens Triple Action Eye Cream
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Behenyl Alcohol
Glycerin
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Pentylene Glycol
Coco-Caprylate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Niacinamide
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Glyceryl Stearate
Jojoba Esters
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Isostearyl Isostearate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Persea Gratissima Oil
Rosa Canina Seed Oil
Caffeine
Allantoin
Propanediol
Phospholipids
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Papaver Rhoeas Extract
Tocopherol
Carica Papaya Leaf Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract
Pisum Sativum Extract
Glucosamine Hcl
Silica
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Polyglycerin-3
Diheptyl Succinate
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Sorbitan Isostearate
Sodium Phytate
Glyceryl Caprylate
Glyceryl Undecylenate
Xanthan Gum
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylyl Glycol
Sodium Benzoate
Phenethyl Alcohol
Polysorbate 60
Mica
CI 77891
Water, Behenyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Pentylene Glycol, Coco-Caprylate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Jojoba Esters, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Persea Gratissima Oil, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Caffeine, Allantoin, Propanediol, Phospholipids, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Papaver Rhoeas Extract, Tocopherol, Carica Papaya Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract, Pisum Sativum Extract, Glucosamine Hcl, Silica, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyglycerin-3, Diheptyl Succinate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Phytate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Xanthan Gum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Phenethyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Mica, CI 77891
Butylene Glycol
Squalane
C13-15 Alkane
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Glucosyl Hesperidin
Lactococcus Ferment Lysate
Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate
Apricot Kernel Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Ornithine
Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate
Lecithin
Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine
Glycolipids
Lespedeza Capitata Leaf/Stem Extract
Punica Granatum Seed Extract
Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract
Rhamnose
Tripeptide-1
Hyaluronic Acid
Magnolol
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Dipeptide-2
Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside
Adenosine Phosphate
Guanosine
Uracil
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Equisetum Arvense Extract
Glycine Max Seed Extract
Poria Cocos Extract
Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract
Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract
Diglucosyl Gallic Acid
Propyl Gallate
Bacillus Ferment
Silanetriol
Palmitic Acid
Stearic Acid
Sorbitol
Lauryl Alcohol
Myristyl Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Methylpropanediol
Sodium Dehydroacetate
Sorbitan Palmitate
Sorbitan Oleate
Citric Acid
Dextran
Benzyl Alcohol
Levulinic Acid
P-Anisic Acid
Sorbic Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Potassium Sorbate
Dehydroacetic Acid
Water, Behenyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Squalane, C13-15 Alkane, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glyceryl Stearate, Glucosyl Hesperidin, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Glycerin, Phospholipids, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Apricot Kernel Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Ornithine, Caffeine, Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate, Lecithin, Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine, Glycolipids, Lespedeza Capitata Leaf/Stem Extract, Punica Granatum Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Rhamnose, Tripeptide-1, Hyaluronic Acid, Magnolol, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Dipeptide-2, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, Adenosine Phosphate, Guanosine, Uracil, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Glycine Max Seed Extract, Poria Cocos Extract, Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Propyl Gallate, Bacillus Ferment, Silanetriol, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Sorbitol, Lauryl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Methylpropanediol, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Sorbitan Oleate, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Dextran, Xanthan Gum, Benzyl Alcohol, Levulinic Acid, P-Anisic Acid, Sorbic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Tocopherol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Behenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).
Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.
Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.
In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Caprylate comes from glycerin and caprylic acid. It is an emollient, co-emulsifier, and preservative booster.
Its short C8 fatty acid chain makes it behave differently from its longer-chain emollient cousins like Glyceryl Stearate. It feels more lightweight, fast-absorbing, and silky instead of rich and waxy.
As a co-emulsifier, its "head" and "tail" sit at the oil-water interface. But overall, the short C8 tail and not being water soluble means it doesn't really have the muscle to emulsify a formula on its own. That's why you'll often see it paired with a primary emulsifier like Cetearyl Glucoside.
Interestingly, Glyceryl Caprylate acts as a preservative booster. This is because its fatty-acid backbone disrupts microbial lipid membranes. It shows excellent activity against bacteria and yeast but is weaker against mold.
Typical concentrations range from 0.5-1% and this ingredient is generally non-irritating.
Because this ingredient has a C8 fatty acid chain, it is outside the range that the Malassezia yeast metabolizes (making it fungal acne safe).
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Phospholipids are a family of skin-identical lipids that makeup the structural backbone of every cell membrane in your body.
In cosmetics, they function as skin conditioning agents with emulsifier and surfactant properties. They're typically sourced from soybean or sunflower lecithin (or sometimes egg yolk or marine sources).
Because they mirror the lipids naturally found in the deeper layers of your skin, topical phospholipids help reinforce the lipid matrix, reduce transepidermal water loss, and leave skin feeling conditioned.
They're also used to form liposomes, or tiny self-assembling vesible used to stabilize actives like vitamin c or retinol. This helps these ingredients integrate into the upper layers of skin more easily.
Phospholipids are compatible with everything and the CIR Expert Panel has concluded them to be safe at current use levels.
Some types of phospholipids include:
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.