Skin science article
Sunday Riley B3 Nice 10% Niacinamide Serum Versus The INKEY List Niacinamide Oil Control Serum
Sunday Riley B3 Nice 10% Niacinamide Serum Versus The INKEY List Niacinamide Oil Control Serum This calming serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Resveratrol to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots. This oil-control serum is formulated around Niac
Sunday Riley B3 Nice 10% Niacinamide Serum Versus The INKEY List Niacinamide Oil Control Serum
This calming serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Resveratrol to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.
This oil-control serum is formulated around Niacinamide to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Niacinamide
Glycerin
Phenyl Trimethicone
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Octyldodecanol
Resveratrol
Diglucosyl Gallic Acid
Asiaticoside
Madecassoside
Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside
Boswellia Serrata Resin Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Betaine
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol
PEG-8
Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane
Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract
Citrus Grandis Peel Extract
Citrus Tangerina Peel Oil
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
Sodium Phytate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan Isostearate
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Dimethicone
Trideceth-6
PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
Tocopherol
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Chlorphenesin
Triethyl Citrate
Water, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Phenyl Trimethicone, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Octyldodecanol, Resveratrol, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, Boswellia Serrata Resin Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Betaine, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol, PEG-8, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Citrus Grandis Peel Extract, Citrus Tangerina Peel Oil, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Sodium Phytate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Dimethicone, Trideceth-6, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Triethyl Citrate
Propanediol
Butylene Glycol
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Phospholipids
Squalane
Xanthan Gum
Glycine Soja Oil
Allantoin
Panthenol
Glycolipids
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Glycine Soja Sterols
Citric Acid
Hyaluronic Acid
Disodium Phosphate
Sodium Phosphate
Water, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Phospholipids, Squalane, Xanthan Gum, Glycine Soja Oil, Allantoin, Sodium Phytate, Polysorbate 60, Panthenol, Glycolipids, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glycine Soja Sterols, Citric Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.
Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.
Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!