Sunday Riley C.E.O. Afterglow Brightening Vitamin C Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice C5 Super Boost Moisturizer

Sunday Riley C.E.O. Afterglow Brightening Vitamin C Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice C5 Super Boost Moisturizer

This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Ergothioneine to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.

This brightening moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dimethicone

Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Polyglycerin-6

Propanediol

Phenyl Trimethicone

Glycerin

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Ergothioneine

Xanthophylls

Allantoin

Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel Oil

Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Crosspolymer

Mannitol

Pentylene Glycol

Isododecane

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Sodium Phytate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Chlorphenesin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Citric Acid

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Water, Dimethicone, Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Polyglycerin-6, Propanediol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Ergothioneine, Xanthophylls, Allantoin, Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel Oil, Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Crosspolymer, Mannitol, Pentylene Glycol, Isododecane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Phytate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Squalane

Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate

Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Jojoba Esters

Tocopherol

Acetyl Zingerone

Cetyl Palmitate

Cetyl Alcohol

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Sodium Hydroxide

Sorbitan Olivate

Sorbitan Palmitate

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Hexylene Glycol

Lecithin

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Glycine Soja Oil

Lysolecithin

Bacillus Ferment

Polyglutamic Acid

Beta-Sitosterol

Phytic Acid

Squalene

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Squalane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Propanediol, Jojoba Esters, Tocopherol, Acetyl Zingerone, Cetyl Palmitate, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Olivate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Phytate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lecithin, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Lysolecithin, Bacillus Ferment, Citric Acid, Polyglutamic Acid, Beta-Sitosterol, Phytic Acid, Squalene, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.

It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.

It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.

As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.

This ingredient is oil-soluble.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.

Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.

In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.

Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.

Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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