Skin science article
Sunday Riley C.E.O Vitamin C Rich Hydration Cream Versus Paula's Choice Resist Intensive Repair Cream
Sunday Riley C.E.O Vitamin C Rich Hydration Cream Versus Paula's Choice Resist Intensive Repair Cream This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin. This anti-aging moist
Sunday Riley C.E.O Vitamin C Rich Hydration Cream Versus Paula's Choice Resist Intensive Repair Cream
This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Squalane
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
C10-18 Triglycerides
PEG-8 Beeswax
Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate
Tapioca Starch
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Citric Acid
PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer
Glycerin
Citrus Tangerina Peel Oil
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Bisabolol
Jojoba Esters
Tocopherol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Limonene
Phenoxyethanol
Lecithin
Nylon-12
Rosa Centifolia Flower Wax
Rosa Damascena Flower Wax
Sodium Phytate
Cetyl Alcohol
Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax
Butylene Glycol
Caprylyl Glycol
Alcohol Denat.
Chlorphenesin
Citrus Australasica Fruit Extract
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Citrus Junos Fruit Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Lippia Citriodora Flower Extract
Oenothera Biennis Seed Extract
Rosa Canina Fruit Extract
Alteromonas Ferment Extract
Benzyl Alcohol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Linalool
Dehydroacetic Acid
Water, Squalane, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, C10-18 Triglycerides, PEG-8 Beeswax, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Tapioca Starch, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Citric Acid, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, Glycerin, Citrus Tangerina Peel Oil, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Bisabolol, Jojoba Esters, Tocopherol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Limonene, Phenoxyethanol, Lecithin, Nylon-12, Rosa Centifolia Flower Wax, Rosa Damascena Flower Wax, Sodium Phytate, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Alcohol Denat., Chlorphenesin, Citrus Australasica Fruit Extract, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Citrus Junos Fruit Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Lippia Citriodora Flower Extract, Oenothera Biennis Seed Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Linalool, Dehydroacetic Acid
Ethylhexyl Stearate
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Petrolatum
Cetearyl Alcohol
Dimethicone
Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate
Glyceryl Stearate
Tridecyl Trimellitate
PEG-100 Stearate
Phenyl Trimethicone
Retinol
Adenosine
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Ceramide Ng
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Niacinamide
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Retinyl Palmitate
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Glycine Soja Sterols
Tribehenin
PEG-10 Phytosterol
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Sodium PCA
Sodium Lactate
Pullulan
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Hydroxide
Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Cetearyl Glucoside
Tridecyl Stearate
Behenyl Alcohol
Sclerotium Gum
Carbomer
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Polysorbate 20
Disodium EDTA
Sorbic Acid
Benzoic Acid
Water, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Petrolatum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate, Glyceryl Stearate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, PEG-100 Stearate, Phenyl Trimethicone, Retinol, Adenosine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ceramide Ng, Sodium Hyaluronate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Niacinamide, Tocopherol, Lecithin, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Glycine Soja Sterols, Tribehenin, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Pullulan, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Tridecyl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Sclerotium Gum, Carbomer, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polysorbate 20, Disodium EDTA, Sorbic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Benzoic Acid
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.
Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.
Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.
Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!