Skin science article
Sunday Riley Pink Drink Firming Resurfacing Essence Versus The Ordinary "Buffet" + Copper Peptides 1%
Sunday Riley Pink Drink Firming Resurfacing Essence Versus The Ordinary "Buffet" + Copper Peptides 1% This anti-aging essence is formulated around Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate and Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin b
Sunday Riley Pink Drink Firming Resurfacing Essence Versus The Ordinary "Buffet" + Copper Peptides 1%
This anti-aging essence is formulated around Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate and Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 and Lactococcus Ferment Lysate to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Yeast Ferment Extract
Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
Honey Extract
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide NP
Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract
Cucumis Sativus Seed Extract
Sea Water
Phospholipids
Sphingolipids
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Zymomonas Ferment Extract
Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Phytosphingosine
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Triethyl Citrate
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
Citrus Paradisi Peel Extract
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Jasminum Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract
Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
Rosa Damascena Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Polyglycerin-6
Glycerin
Saccharide Isomerate
Cholesterol
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Betaine
Polysorbate 20
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Carbomer
Hydroxyacetophenone
Xanthan Gum
1,2-Hexanediol
Maltodextrin
Tris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)Citrate
Alcohol
Sodium Phytate
Water, Yeast Ferment Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Honey Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Cucumis Sativus Seed Extract, Sea Water, Phospholipids, Sphingolipids, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Zymomonas Ferment Extract, Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Phytosphingosine, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Triethyl Citrate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Paradisi Peel Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Rosa Damascena Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Polyglycerin-6, Glycerin, Saccharide Isomerate, Cholesterol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Betaine, Polysorbate 20, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Xanthan Gum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Maltodextrin, Tris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)Citrate, Alcohol, Sodium Phytate
Lactococcus Ferment Lysate
Copper Tripeptide-1
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Pentapeptide-18
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Sodium Hyaluronate
Allantoin
Glycine
Alanine
Serine
Valine
Isoleucine
Proline
Threonine
Histidine
Phenylalanine
Arginine
Aspartic Acid
Trehalose
Fructose
Glucose
Maltose
Urea
Sodium PCA
PCA
Sodium Lactate
Citric Acid
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Sodium Chloride
Sodium Hydroxide
Butylene Glycol
Pentylene Glycol
Acacia Senegal Gum
Sodium Benzoate
Caprylyl Glycol
Chlorphenesin
Water, Glycerin, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Trehalose, Fructose, Glucose, Maltose, Urea, Sodium PCA, PCA, Sodium Lactate, Citric Acid, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hydroxide, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Dimethyl Isosorbide (often shortened to DMI) is a sugar-derived solvent made from sorbitol. It's used to dissolve tricky ingredients and help them mix smoothly into a formula.
Many actives sit as gritty crystals when undissolved, so DMI swoops in to full dissolve them. This helps improve texture, stability, and how evenly an active is distributed.
It does have a penetration-enhancing reputation that is a bit more nuanced than marketing suggests; a cell study on human skin found that 10% DMI didn't significantly boost the permeation of Hydroquinone, Salicylic Acid, or Octadecenedioic Acid compared to controls (though it did improve their solubility in the formula itself).
Typical usage concentrations usually range from 1-10% depending on the formula's needs; this ingredient is also well tolerated at these levels.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.