Sungboon Editor Deep Collagen Barrier Serum Mist Versus Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum

Sungboon Editor Deep Collagen Barrier Serum Mist Versus Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Ferulic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

1,2-Hexanediol

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Niacinamide

Cetearyl Alcohol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Vinyldimethicone

Propanediol

Cetearyl Olivate

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Sorbitan Olivate

Glyceryl Stearate

Stearyl Alcohol

Carbomer

Tromethamine

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Ceramide NP

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Disodium EDTA

Sorbitan Isostearate

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Sea Water

Bellis Perennis Flower Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Saccharide Isomerate

Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract

Prunus Serrulata Flower Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Xylitylglucoside

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Anhydroxylitol

Asparagus Lucidus Root Extract

Tussilago Farfara Flower Extract

Laminaria Japonica Extract

Dipropylene Glycol

Hydrolyzed Keratin

Illicium Verum Fruit Extract

Xylitol

Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract

Calendula Officinalis Extract

Fructan

Madecassic Acid

Asiaticoside

Glucose

Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract

Asiatic Acid

Centella Asiatica Extract

Camellia Japonica Flower Extract

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Citric Acid

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Sodium Citrate

Beta-Glucan

Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract

Pueraria Lobata Root Extract

Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract

Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract

Glycine

Serine

Glutamic Acid

Aspartic Acid

Leucine

Madecassoside

Alanine

Lysine

Arginine

Tyrosine

Phenylalanine

Proline

Threonine

Valine

Isoleucine

Histidine

Cysteine

Methionine

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Vinyldimethicone, Propanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Sorbitan Olivate, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Sea Water, Bellis Perennis Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Prunus Serrulata Flower Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Xylitylglucoside, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Anhydroxylitol, Asparagus Lucidus Root Extract, Tussilago Farfara Flower Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, Xylitol, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Calendula Officinalis Extract, Fructan, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Glucose, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Asiatic Acid, Centella Asiatica Extract, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Citric Acid, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Sodium Citrate, Beta-Glucan, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Glycine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Madecassoside, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Threonine, Valine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Cysteine, Methionine, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Isopentyldiol

Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate

Squalane

Tetradecane

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Mannitol

Phosphatidylcholine

Ferulic Acid

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14

Palmitoyl Sh-Heptapeptide-12 Sp

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Tocopherol

Pullulan

Lysolecithin

Sclerotium Gum

Dimethicone

Sodium Phytate

Diglycerin

Silica

Cetyl Alcohol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Polysorbate 60

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Decyl Glucoside

Xanthan Gum

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Chloride

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isopentyldiol, Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate, Squalane, Tetradecane, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Mannitol, Phosphatidylcholine, Ferulic Acid, Arginine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Palmitoyl Sh-Heptapeptide-12 Sp, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Glycerin, Tocopherol, Pullulan, Lysolecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Dimethicone, Sodium Phytate, Diglycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Silica, Cetyl Alcohol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Decyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Chloride, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.

It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.

A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.

Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.

One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.

Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Hydrolyzed Collagen is Collagen (usually sourced from fish, bovine, or porcine byproducts) that's been broken down into smaller peptides. This makes it water-soluble and easy to blend into formulations.

In a formula, it works mainly as a skin-conditioning and moisturizing agent.

The small peptides and amino acids (including Natural Moisturizing Factor components like Hydroxyproline, Serine, and Aspartic Acid) help the surface of the skin hold onto water, feel softer, and look temporarily plumper.

This ingredient also has mild film-forming and antioxidant properties with research showing the antioxidant effect is stronger the lower the molecular weight of the peptides.

It's worth being realistic here:

Topically applied Hydrolyzed Collagen conditions the upper layers of skin rather than rebuilding the structural collagen deep in your dermis (the wrinkle-and-firmness benefits people associate with Collagen mostly come from oral supplements in studies, not topicals).

However, recent lab and skin-model work on Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen has shown promising effects on cell viability and wound healing when used as an active.

Typical concentrations range from 0.2-2%, but the percentage can go much higher in rinse-off or hair products (sometimes even above 50%).

Clinical studies on this ingredient showed no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.

If you are looking for vegan collagen, it usually goes by a different INCI name like hydrolyzed soy protein. Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources.

The results are varied.

A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.

However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.

Further studies are needed at this time.

This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.

It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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