Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Supergoop! Glowscreen SPF 40 PA+++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Daily Tinted Fluid Sunscreen SPF 40

Supergoop! Glowscreen SPF 40 PA+++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Daily Tinted Fluid Sunscreen SPF 40 This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 40. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Butyl Metho

Supergoop! Glowscreen SPF 40 PA+++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Daily Tinted Fluid Sunscreen SPF 40

This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 40.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%

Homosalate 4%

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%

Octocrylene 8%

Water

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Propanediol

Titanium Dioxide

Glycerin

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Mica

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Isododecane

Niacinamide

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Glyceryl Stearate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetyl Phosphate

Diisopropyl Sebacate

Isodecyl Neopentanoate

Lauryl Lactate

Coco-Caprylate

Arginine

Silica

Butylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Sodium Hyaluronate

Chlorphenesin

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Tin Oxide

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Phospholipids

Limonium Gerberi Extract

Iron Oxides

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Pantothenic Acid

Tocopherol

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Ferulic Acid

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Homosalate 4%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Octocrylene 8%, Water, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Propanediol, Titanium Dioxide, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Mica, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Isododecane, Niacinamide, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Phosphate, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Lauryl Lactate, Coco-Caprylate, Arginine, Silica, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Chlorphenesin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tin Oxide, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Phospholipids, Limonium Gerberi Extract, Iron Oxides, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Pantothenic Acid, Tocopherol, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Ferulic Acid

Zinc Oxide

Isopropyl Myristate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

CI 77492

Ethylhexyl Isononanoate

Alcohol Denat.

Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer

CI 77491

Stearic Acid

Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables

Artemisia Capillaris Extract

Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate

Stearalkonium Hectorite

Undecane

Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate

Tridecane

Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate

Polyglycerin-6

Ascorbyl Palmitate

CI 77499

Zinc Oxide, Water, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Isopropyl Myristate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, CI 77492, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, Alcohol Denat., Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Butylene Glycol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propanediol, Silica, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, CI 77491, Stearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Undecane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tridecane, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Polyglycerin-6, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, CI 77499

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Butyloctyl Salicylate is a chemical UV filter structurally similar to octisalate. It is a photostabilizer, SPF booster, emollient and solvent. This ingredient helps evenly spread out ingredients.

According to a manufacturer, it is suitable for pairing with micro Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, and pigments.

Photostabilizers help stabilize UV-filters and prevents them from degrading quickly.

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.

In cosmetics, it plays several roles:

The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.

This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.

It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.

Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.

This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.

Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.

Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.

The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).

In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.

So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 031,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
  4. 04It is a:
  5. 05Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  6. 06Emollient, helping to soften skin
  7. 07Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  8. 08Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
  9. 09Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
  10. 10The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
  11. 11Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down o…
  12. 12The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
  13. 13A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at…
  14. 14A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
  15. 15On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
  16. 16This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
  17. 17Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
  18. 18Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
  19. 19It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
  20. 20Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Beauty of Joseon Repair Serum

Beauty of Joseon Repair Serum Beauty of Joseon Repair Serum ingredients explained: Panax Ginseng Root Water (63%), Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Snail Secretion Filtrate (3%), Dipropylen…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side