Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

SVR Sebiaclear Serum Versus Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment

SVR Sebiaclear Serum Versus Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment This acne serum is formulated around Gluconolactone and Niacinamide to clear breakouts and balance excess oil. This pore-care treatment is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Gl

SVR Sebiaclear Serum Versus Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment

This acne serum is formulated around Gluconolactone and Niacinamide to clear breakouts and balance excess oil.

This pore-care treatment is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Glucosamine to refine the look of pores and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Gluconolactone

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Niacinamide

Propanediol

Sodium Hydroxide

Dimethicone

Glycerin

Biosaccharide Gum-4

Camellia Japonica Flower Extract

Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Crithmum Maritimum Extract

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Sclerotium Gum

Salicylic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Tocopherol

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

PEG-100 Stearate

Coco-Glucoside

Parfum

Water, Gluconolactone, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Sodium Hydroxide, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sclerotium Gum, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, PEG-100 Stearate, Coco-Glucoside, Parfum

Niacinamide 20%

Pentylene Glycol

Butylene Glycol

Acetyl Glucosamine

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Spiraea Ulmaria Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Allantoin

Lecithin

Pullulan

Panthenol

Silica

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Phytate

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Niacinamide 20%, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Acetyl Glucosamine, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Spiraea Ulmaria Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Allantoin, Lecithin, Pullulan, Panthenol, Silica, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Propanediol, Sodium Phytate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Camellia Japonica Flower Extract comes from the Japanese Camellia plant (a cousin of the green tea plant). This plant is native to East Asia and known as "Tsubaki" in Japanese.

It's a flower extract packed with flavonoids and phenolic acids that give it most of its skincare value. In lab tests on human skin cells, the ethanol extract of the flower mopped up free radicals and boosted the skin's own antioxidant enzymes.

A separate study found the flower extract had solid antioxidant activity and reduced the reactive oxygen species that urban air pollution triggers in skin cells.

Newer work also points at anti-aging and calming effects:

One 2025 paper tied the extract and its component hyperoside to collagen III and elastin production plus better skin-barrier protein expression. A mouse study on eczema-like skin found four weeks of topical camellia extract reduced inflammation and itch-related markers.

Just know that most of these studies are cell-culture and animal work and not human trials. For now, it's best to treat it as a nice supporting antioxidant rather than a headline active.

At this time, there's no published regulatory use-level for this specific ingredient; suppliers usually sell it as a water/glycerin-based extract used in the low single-digit percent range.

There's no published contact-allergy case reports for this ingredient but as with any botanical, a patch test is sensible if you react to plant extracts generally.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sclerotium Gum is a natural sugar-based fiber made by fermenting a fungus called Sclerotium rolfsii. It's often used as the plant-friendly alternative for synthetic thickeners like carbomer.

In skincare, it works as a thickener, gel former, and stabilizer that keeps heavy ingredients suspended so a product does not separate.

It is non-ionic and forms a triple helix in solution. This is just a fancy way of saying it builds a smooth, cushiony, and non-sticky gel that feels silkier than many other gums.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it is very sturdy and holds up across a wide pH range (~2-11). It's also good at resisting heat and hydrolysis.

Since it holds water at the skin surface, it can provide some light hydration as well.

Typical use levels are around 0.25-2%; formulators usually use 0.2-0.5% to thicken lotions and up to 2% for a firmer gel base.

This ingredient has been found safe in cosmetics with no meaningful evidence of skin sensitization.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
  4. 04What it does:
  5. 05Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
  6. 06Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
  7. 07Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
  8. 08This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
  9. 09Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
  10. 10Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
  11. 11This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
  12. 12On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
  13. 13One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too st…
  14. 14Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
  15. 15You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
  16. 16Ethylhexyl Salicylate (also called Octisalate or Octyl Salicylate) is an oil-soluble organic UV filter that's been used in sunscreen since the 1950's.
  17. 17It absorbs UVB light in the 280-320 nm range with a peak absorbance around 306 nm.
  18. 18You'll often see it paired with other UV filters to boost overall SPF because octisalate is a fairly week filter on its own.
  19. 19The reason you'll see it so often is because it can help solubilize and stabilize the trickier filters like oxybenzone and avobenzone.
  20. 20Unlike these filters, octisalate has pretty good photostability and doesn't create skin-damaging free radicals when exposed to sunlight.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

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Paula's Choice C15 Super Booster Paula's Choice C15 Super Booster ingredients explained: Aqua/Water/Eau⁠, Ascorbic Acid⁠, Glycerin⁠, Ethoxydiglycol⁠, PPG-26-Buteth-26⁠, Mannitol⁠, Tridecape…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

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