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Skin science article

Tatcha Indigo Overnight Repair Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream Intense Hydration

Tatcha Indigo Overnight Repair Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream Intense Hydration This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Leaf and Ceramide Ng to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This calming moisturi

Tatcha Indigo Overnight Repair Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream Intense Hydration

This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Leaf and Ceramide Ng to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Colloidal Oatmeal and Squalane to calm redness and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dimethicone

Diglycerin

Camellia Sinensis Leaf

Glycerin

Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone

Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate

Butylene Glycol

Diisostearyl Malate

PEG-10 Dimethicone

Propanediol

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract

Indigofera Tinctoria Leaf Extract

Ceramide Ng

Palmitic Acid

Linoleic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Polygonum Tinctorium Leaf/Stem Extract

Cetyl Alcohol

Sucrose Stearate

Sucrose Palmitate

Maltodextrin

Sargassum Vulgare Extract

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Hydrolyzed Lagenaria Siceraria Fruit Juice

Salvia Miltiorrhiza Root Extract

Tocopherol

Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Magnesium Sulfate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Phytosterols

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Mica

CI 77891

Water, Dimethicone, Diglycerin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf, Glycerin, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Diisostearyl Malate, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Propanediol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Indigofera Tinctoria Leaf Extract, Ceramide Ng, Palmitic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polygonum Tinctorium Leaf/Stem Extract, Cetyl Alcohol, Sucrose Stearate, Sucrose Palmitate, Maltodextrin, Sargassum Vulgare Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Hydrolyzed Lagenaria Siceraria Fruit Juice, Salvia Miltiorrhiza Root Extract, Tocopherol, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Magnesium Sulfate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Phytosterols, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Mica, CI 77891

Colloidal Oatmeal 0.5%

Stearic Acid

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Glyceryl Stearate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Squalane

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Caprylyl Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Allantoin

Sodium Hydroxide

Tetrasodium EDTA

Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Ceramide NP

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Colloidal Oatmeal 0.5%, Water, Stearic Acid, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Squalane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Allantoin, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium EDTA, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Ceramide NP, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  4. 04Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  5. 05Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  6. 06Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  7. 07Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  8. 08Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  9. 09Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  10. 10This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  11. 11Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  12. 12Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  13. 13Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
  14. 14Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
  15. 15This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
  16. 16A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
  17. 17Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
  18. 18Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
  19. 19Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
  20. 20It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

Product

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream ingredients explained: Colloidal Oatmeal (0.50%), Water, Stearic Acid, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capr…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
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Comparison edit

Read side by side