Skin science article
Tatcha The Brightening Eye Cream Versus COSRX Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream
Tatcha The Brightening Eye Cream Versus COSRX Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. This anti-aging
Tatcha The Brightening Eye Cream Versus COSRX Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Snail Secretion Filtrate and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Squalane
Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate
Hydrogenated Rice Bran Oil
Glycerin
C15-19 Alkane
Propanediol
Behenic Acid
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Butylene Glycol
Behenyl Alcohol
Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Glyceryl Stearate
Beheneth-20
Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract
Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract
Prunus Mume Fruit Extract
Niacinamide
Sodium Hyaluronate
Ferulic Acid
Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
Bacillus Ferment
Lecithin
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Lysolecithin
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Lysine Carboxymethyl Cysteinate
Xanthan Gum
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate
Caprylyl Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Tocopheryl Acetate
Glyceryl Caprylate
Tocopherol
Potassium Hydroxide
Phytic Acid
Silica
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Tin Oxide
CI 77891
CI 77491
CI 77492
Water, Squalane, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Hydrogenated Rice Bran Oil, Glycerin, C15-19 Alkane, Propanediol, Behenic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Butylene Glycol, Behenyl Alcohol, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Glyceryl Stearate, Beheneth-20, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract, Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Niacinamide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ferulic Acid, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Bacillus Ferment, Lecithin, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Lysolecithin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Lysine Carboxymethyl Cysteinate, Xanthan Gum, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Tocopherol, Potassium Hydroxide, Phytic Acid, Silica, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Tin Oxide, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492
Snail Secretion Filtrate
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Palmitic Acid
Arginine
Carbomer
Stearic Acid
Betaine
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Sodium Polyacrylate
Allantoin
Panthenol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Adenosine
Myristic Acid
Copper Tripeptide-1
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Snail Secretion Filtrate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Water, Palmitic Acid, Arginine, Carbomer, Stearic Acid, Betaine, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, Myristic Acid, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.