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Tatcha The Dewy Serum Resurfacing and Plumping Treatment Versus Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum

Tatcha The Dewy Serum Resurfacing and Plumping Treatment Versus Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum This hydrating serum is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Leaf and Squalane to hydrate skin and soften the look of wrinkles. This smoothing

Tatcha The Dewy Serum Resurfacing and Plumping Treatment Versus Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum

This hydrating serum is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Leaf and Squalane to hydrate skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

This smoothing serum is formulated around Lactic Acid and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Camellia Sinensis Leaf

Glycerin

Propanediol

Water

Squalane

Glyceryl Stearate

Isononyl Isononanoate

Behenyl Alcohol

Dimethicone

Stearyl Alcohol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Betaphycus Gelatinum Extract

Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Phytosteryl Macadamiate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine

Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate

Polyglyceryl-10 Eicosanedioate/Tetradecanedioate

Cellulose Gum

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Disodium Phosphate

Potassium Phosphate

Disodium EDTA

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sorbitan Isostearate

Polysorbate 60

Butylene Glycol

Tocopherol

Alcohol

Parfum

Phenoxyethanol

Camellia Sinensis Leaf, Glycerin, Propanediol, Water, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Stearyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Betaphycus Gelatinum Extract, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Polyglyceryl-10 Eicosanedioate/Tetradecanedioate, Cellulose Gum, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Disodium Phosphate, Potassium Phosphate, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Butylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Alcohol, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol

Lactic Acid

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Sodium Hydroxide

Glycine Max Seed Extract

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil

Sodium PCA

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide

Tocotrienols

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14

Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Tripeptide-1

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Panthenol

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Sodium Lactate

PCA

Alanine

Arginine

Glycine

Histidine

Isoleucine

Phenylalanine

Proline

Serine

Threonine

Valine

Adenosine

Nymphaea Alba Root Extract

Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract

Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract

Dextran

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Acetyl Glutamine

Coconut Alkanes

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Pentylene Glycol

Isomalt

Lecithin

Xanthan Gum

Aspartic Acid

Phytosphingosine

Phospholipids

Glycine Soja Sterols

Citric Acid

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Sodium Benzoate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Polysorbate 20

Caprylyl Glycol

Phenylpropanol

Chlorphenesin

Carbomer

Glyceryl Caprylate

Water, Glycerin, Lactic Acid, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Squalane, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycine Max Seed Extract, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Sodium PCA, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, Tocotrienols, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Tripeptide-1, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Lactate, PCA, Alanine, Arginine, Glycine, Histidine, Isoleucine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Serine, Threonine, Valine, Adenosine, Nymphaea Alba Root Extract, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract, Dextran, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Acetyl Glutamine, Coconut Alkanes, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Pentylene Glycol, Isomalt, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Aspartic Acid, Phytosphingosine, Phospholipids, Glycine Soja Sterols, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenylpropanol, Chlorphenesin, Carbomer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ethylhexylglycerin

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Lactic Acid
  4. 04Dicaprylyl Carbonate
  5. 05Squalane
  6. 06Sodium Hydroxide
  7. 07Glycine Max Seed Extract
  8. 08Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
  9. 09Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
  10. 10Sodium PCA
  11. 11Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  12. 12Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
  13. 13Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide
  14. 14Tocotrienols
  15. 15Sh-Oligopeptide-1
  16. 16Sh-Oligopeptide-2
  17. 17Sh-Polypeptide-1
  18. 18Sh-Polypeptide-9
  19. 19Sh-Polypeptide-11
  20. 20Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side