Skin science article
Tatcha The Longevity Memory Cream Versus Peach & Lily Peptide Pro Firming Moisturizer
Tatcha The Longevity Memory Cream Versus Peach & Lily Peptide Pro Firming Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles. This
Tatcha The Longevity Memory Cream Versus Peach & Lily Peptide Pro Firming Moisturizer
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Collagen Extract and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Dimethicone
Niacinamide
Pentylene Glycol
Glycereth-26
Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Betaine
PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether
Dipropylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract
Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Juice
Alpinia Speciosa Leaf Extract
Psidium Guajava Leaf Extract
Citrus Depressa Peel Extract
Saccharomyces Lysate Extract
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Propanediol
Triethylhexanoin
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Arginine
Tocopherol
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Sodium Phosphate
Caprylyl Glycol
Nonapeptide-1
Parfum
Ethylhexylglycerin
Potassium Hydroxide
Potassium Laurate
Disodium Phosphate
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Phenoxyethanol
Citral
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
Limonene
Linalool
Linalyl Acetate
Pinene
Terpineol
Turpentine
Silica
CI 77491
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Glycereth-26, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Betaine, PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract, Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Juice, Alpinia Speciosa Leaf Extract, Psidium Guajava Leaf Extract, Citrus Depressa Peel Extract, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Propanediol, Triethylhexanoin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arginine, Tocopherol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Nonapeptide-1, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Potassium Laurate, Disodium Phosphate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Citral, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Limonene, Linalool, Linalyl Acetate, Pinene, Terpineol, Turpentine, Silica, CI 77491
Sorbitol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Hydrogenated Polydecene
C10-18 Triglycerides
Stearic Acid
Cetearyl Glucoside
Collagen Extract
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Dipeptide-2
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Copper Tripeptide-1
Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Hexapeptide-9
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Serine
Methionine
Cysteine
Tremella Fuciformis Extract
Polyglutamic Acid
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic Acid
Squalane
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Glyceryl Glucoside
Prunus Mume Fruit Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Adenosine
Sorbitan Stearate
Carbomer
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
Phellinus Linteus Extract
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Glucose
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Tropolone
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Water, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitol, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Polydecene, C10-18 Triglycerides, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Glucoside, Collagen Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Dipeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Nonapeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Serine, Methionine, Cysteine, Arginine, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Polyglutamic Acid, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Glucoside, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Adenosine, Tocopherol, Sorbitan Stearate, Carbomer, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Glucose, Ethylhexylglycerin, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tropolone, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Nonapeptide-1 is created from amino acids including arginine and lysine.
It has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties.
Emerging studies show Nonapeptide-1 to help with reducing pigmentation and brightening the skin. It has shown to prevent the activation of tyrosinase, an enzyme in the skin that begins the process of melanin creation. Melanin is responsible for giving skin a tan or dark spots.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
We don't have a description for Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate yet.
This ingredient is created by fermenting the yeast, Saccharomyces, and rice. Saccharomyces is rich in beta-glucan and has great hydrating properties.
Rice ferment also has great skin benefits - read more about them here.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!