Skin science article
Tatcha The Silk Peony Melting Eye Cream Versus Summer Fridays Light Aura Vitamin C + Peptide Eye Cream
Tatcha The Silk Peony Melting Eye Cream Versus Summer Fridays Light Aura Vitamin C + Peptide Eye Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate and Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This b
Tatcha The Silk Peony Melting Eye Cream Versus Summer Fridays Light Aura Vitamin C + Peptide Eye Cream
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate and Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate
Water
Glycerin
Propanediol
Squalane
Dimethicone
Behenyl Alcohol
Myristyl Myristate
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Cera Alba
Whey Protein
Inositol
Silica
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract
Paeonia Albiflora Flower Extract
Hydrolyzed Silk
Sericin
Geranium Robertianum Extract
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Yeast Ferment Extract
Sargassum Vulgare Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Isostearic Acid
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Sodium Polyacrylate Starch
Stearyl Alcohol
Sorbitan Isostearate
Polysorbate 60
Tocopheryl Acetate
Tocopherol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Sodium Benzoate
Gluconolactone
Butylene Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Parfum
Phenoxyethanol
Citral
Limonene
Linalool
Mica
Tin Oxide
CI 77891
Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Squalane, Dimethicone, Behenyl Alcohol, Myristyl Myristate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cera Alba, Whey Protein, Inositol, Silica, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract, Paeonia Albiflora Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Silk, Sericin, Geranium Robertianum Extract, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Yeast Ferment Extract, Sargassum Vulgare Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Isostearic Acid, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Stearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Benzoate, Gluconolactone, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Citral, Limonene, Linalool, Mica, Tin Oxide, CI 77891
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Pentylene Glycol
Coco-Caprylate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Niacinamide
Glyceryl Stearate
Jojoba Esters
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Isostearyl Isostearate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Persea Gratissima Oil
Rosa Canina Seed Oil
Caffeine
Allantoin
Phospholipids
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Papaver Rhoeas Extract
Carica Papaya Leaf Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract
Pisum Sativum Extract
Glucosamine Hcl
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Polyglycerin-3
Diheptyl Succinate
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Sodium Phytate
Glyceryl Caprylate
Glyceryl Undecylenate
Xanthan Gum
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylyl Glycol
Phenethyl Alcohol
Water, Behenyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Pentylene Glycol, Coco-Caprylate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Jojoba Esters, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Persea Gratissima Oil, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Caffeine, Allantoin, Propanediol, Phospholipids, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Papaver Rhoeas Extract, Tocopherol, Carica Papaya Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract, Pisum Sativum Extract, Glucosamine Hcl, Silica, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyglycerin-3, Diheptyl Succinate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Phytate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Xanthan Gum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Phenethyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Mica, CI 77891
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Behenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).
Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.
Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.
In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.
Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Mica is a naturally occurring mineral used to add shimmer and color in cosmetics. It can also help improve the texture of a product or give it an opaque, white/silver color.
Serecite is the name for very fine but ragged grains of mica.
This ingredient is often coated with metal oxides like titanium dioxide. Trace amounts of heavy metals may be found in mica, but these metals are not harmful in our personal products.
Mica has been used since prehistoric times throughout the world. Ancient Egyptian, Indian, Greek, Roman, Aztec, and Chinese civilizations have used mica.
Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.
As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.
This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.
Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!