Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

The Derma Co 4% Ceramide Barrier Repair Moisturizer Versus The Derma Co Skin Renew Peptide Anti-Pollution Face Wash

The Derma Co 4% Ceramide Barrier Repair Moisturizer Versus The Derma Co Skin Renew Peptide Anti-Pollution Face Wash This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide EOP and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This mild gel

The Derma Co 4% Ceramide Barrier Repair Moisturizer Versus The Derma Co Skin Renew Peptide Anti-Pollution Face Wash

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide EOP and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This mild gel cleanser is mild enough to cleanse without leaving skin feeling tight or stripped.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide NP

Ceramide As

Ceramide AP

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Niacinamide

Xylitol

Glucose

Anhydroxylitol

Phoenix Dactylifera Seed Extract

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Lecithin

Propylene Glycol

Polyglycerin-3

Glyceryl Stearate

Xylitylglucoside

Dimethicone

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Shea Butter Glycerides

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Sodium Benzoate

Stearic Acid

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Hydroxide

Hyaluronic Acid

Glycerin

Ligustrum Lucidum Seed Extract

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

Butylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Water, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide NP, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Xylitol, Glucose, Anhydroxylitol, Phoenix Dactylifera Seed Extract, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Lecithin, Propylene Glycol, Polyglycerin-3, Glyceryl Stearate, Xylitylglucoside, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Shea Butter Glycerides, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Benzoate, Stearic Acid, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Hyaluronic Acid, Glycerin, Ligustrum Lucidum Seed Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate

Acrylates Copolymer

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate

Dextran

Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Methoxycinnamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine

Salicylic Acid

Betaine

Sodium Gluconate

Centella Asiatica Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Biosaccharide Gum-4

Water, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Acrylates Copolymer, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Dextran, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Benzoate, Methoxycinnamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Salicylic Acid, Betaine, Sodium Gluconate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Hyaluronic Acid

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.

Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.

The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.

The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.

A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
  4. 04In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
  5. 05Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
  6. 06"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
  7. 07Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
  8. 08So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
  9. 09You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Source · skinsort.com
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side