The Derma Co Snail Peptide 96 Hydrating Face Wash Versus MEDI-PEEL Red Lacto Collagen Clear Cleanser

The Derma Co Snail Peptide 96 Hydrating Face Wash Versus MEDI-PEEL Red Lacto Collagen Clear Cleanser

This mild cream cleanser is made to cleanse without leaving your skin tight or dry.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propylene Glycol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glycerin

Niacinamide

Ethylhexyl Olivate

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Caffeine

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

N-Hydroxysuccinimide

Polysorbate 20

Butylene Glycol

Carbomer

Alpha-Arbutin

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Snail Secretion Filtrate

Ubiquinone

Retinyl Palmitate

Diacetyl Boldine

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Panthenol

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Propylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Caffeine, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Alpha-Arbutin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Ubiquinone, Retinyl Palmitate, Diacetyl Boldine, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Panthenol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Dipropylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Isopropyl Isostearate

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Astaxanthin

Potassium Hyaluronate

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract

Salvia Sclarea Extract

Hyacinthus Orientalis Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Borago Officinalis Extract

Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract

Arginine

Beeswax

Stearyl Alcohol

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Dimethicone

Sorbitan Stearate

Polysorbate 60

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Palmitic Acid

C14-22 Alcohols

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Adenosine

Polyacrylate-13

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

Tocopheryl Acetate

Disodium EDTA

Polyisobutene

Propanediol

Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Glucose

CI 42090

Parfum

Hexyl Cinnamal

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Hydroxycitronellal

Citronellol

Limonene

Geraniol

Linalool

Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Isopropyl Isostearate, Niacinamide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Astaxanthin, Potassium Hyaluronate, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Salvia Sclarea Extract, Hyacinthus Orientalis Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Borago Officinalis Extract, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract, Carbomer, Arginine, Beeswax, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Stearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone, Sorbitan Stearate, Panthenol, Polysorbate 60, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Palmitic Acid, C14-22 Alcohols, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Adenosine, Polyacrylate-13, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Disodium EDTA, Polyisobutene, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glucose, CI 42090, Parfum, Hexyl Cinnamal, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Limonene, Geraniol, Linalool

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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