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Skin science article

The Derma Co Tran-Zelaic Pigmentation Corrector Serum Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster

The Derma Co Tran-Zelaic Pigmentation Corrector Serum Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster This brightening serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Niacinamide to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin. This calming treatment

The Derma Co Tran-Zelaic Pigmentation Corrector Serum Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster

This brightening serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Niacinamide to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

This calming treatment is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Azelaic Acid 10%

Propanediol

Niacinamide

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Tranexamic Acid 3%

Betaine

Alpha-Arbutin

Panthenol

Phenethyl Alcohol

Caprylyl Glycol

Glycerin

Sodium PCA

4-Butylresorcinol

Ferulic Acid

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Allantoin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Hydroxide

Disodium EDTA

Water, Azelaic Acid 10%, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Tranexamic Acid 3%, Betaine, Alpha-Arbutin, Panthenol, Phenethyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycerin, Sodium PCA, 4-Butylresorcinol, Ferulic Acid, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA

Azelaic Acid

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Dimethicone

Salicylic Acid

Adenosine

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract

Bisabolol

Cyclopentasiloxane

Sclerotium Gum

Butylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Azelaic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Salicylic Acid, Adenosine, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.

What makes it special?

OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.

Here's what each tier does best:

Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.

Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  4. 04Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  5. 05Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  6. 06Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
  7. 07What it does:
  8. 08Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
  9. 09Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
  10. 10Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
  11. 11This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
  12. 12Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
  13. 13Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  14. 14The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  15. 15Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  16. 16Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
  17. 17It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
  18. 18On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
  19. 19Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
  20. 20You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Paula's Choice Resist Bha 9

Paula's Choice Resist Bha 9 Paula's Choice Resist Bha 9 ingredients explained: Propylene Glycol, PEG-75, PEG-8, Water, Salicylic Acid, Glycerin, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Butylene …

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side