Skin science article
The History of Whoo Bichup Self-Generating Anti-Aging Concentrate Versus COSRX The 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum
The History of Whoo Bichup Self-Generating Anti-Aging Concentrate Versus COSRX The 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Panthenol and Panax Ginseng Root Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
The History of Whoo Bichup Self-Generating Anti-Aging Concentrate Versus COSRX The 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Panthenol and Panax Ginseng Root Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Dipropylene Glycol
PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Dimethicone
1,2-Hexanediol
PEG-150
Methyl Trimethicone
Panthenol
Phenyl Trimethicone
Propylene Glycol
Cyclopentasiloxane
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Hydroxyproline
C14-22 Alcohols
Squalane
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Butylene Glycol
Ceramide NP
Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract
Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract
Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Root Extract
Thymus Vulgaris Extract
Velvet Extract
Tromethamine
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Triethylhexanoin
Carbomer
Dimethiconol
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol
Arachidyl Glucoside
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Parfum
Algin
Sodium Polyacrylate
Typha Angustifolia Spike Extract
Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract
Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract
Glyceryl Stearate
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Atractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract
Saposhnikovia Divaricata Root Extract
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Zizyphus Jujuba Fruit Extract
Stearic Acid
Angelica Gigas Root Extract
Cholesterol
PEG-100 Stearate
Beta-Glucan
Glycereth-20
Poria Cocos Extract
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Trisodium EDTA
Cordyceps Sinensis Extract
CI 15985
CI 19140
Arbutin
Glycosphingolipids
Oligopeptide-1
Oligopeptide-4
Phospholipids
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Copper Tripeptide-1
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Oligopeptide-2
Histidine Hcl
Arginine
Lysine
Valine
Threonine
Leucine
Methionine
Isoleucine
Phenylalanine
Tyrosine
Inositol
Cystine
Tryptophan
Folic Acid
Niacinamide
Pyridoxine Hcl
Thiamine Hcl
Calcium Pantothenate
Biotin
Riboflavin
Cyanocobalamin
Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, PEG-150, Methyl Trimethicone, Panthenol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Propylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydroxyproline, C14-22 Alcohols, Squalane, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Butylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract, Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Root Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Extract, Velvet Extract, Tromethamine, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Triethylhexanoin, Carbomer, Dimethiconol, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Parfum, Algin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Typha Angustifolia Spike Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Atractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract, Saposhnikovia Divaricata Root Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Zizyphus Jujuba Fruit Extract, Stearic Acid, Angelica Gigas Root Extract, Cholesterol, PEG-100 Stearate, Beta-Glucan, Glycereth-20, Poria Cocos Extract, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Trisodium EDTA, Cordyceps Sinensis Extract, CI 15985, CI 19140, Arbutin, Glycosphingolipids, Oligopeptide-1, Oligopeptide-4, Phospholipids, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Oligopeptide-2, Histidine Hcl, Arginine, Lysine, Valine, Threonine, Leucine, Methionine, Isoleucine, Phenylalanine, Tyrosine, Inositol, Cystine, Tryptophan, Folic Acid, Niacinamide, Pyridoxine Hcl, Thiamine Hcl, Calcium Pantothenate, Biotin, Riboflavin, Cyanocobalamin
Pentylene Glycol
Sh-Polypeptide-121
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Oligopeptide-68
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Allantoin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Acetyl Glucosamine
Serine
Alanine
Glycine
Proline
Betaine
Sodium PCA
Sodium Lactate
PCA
Glutamic Acid
Lysine Hcl
Tocopherol
Dextran
Glycine Soja Oil
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Xanthan Gum
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Polyquaternium-51
Disodium EDTA
Citric Acid
Caprylyl Glycol
T-Butyl Alcohol
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Oleate
Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Oligopeptide-68, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Serine, Alanine, Glycine, Threonine, Arginine, Proline, Betaine, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, PCA, Glutamic Acid, Lysine Hcl, Tocopherol, Dextran, Glycine Soja Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Polyquaternium-51, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, T-Butyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Oleate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.
It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.
While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.
Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.
Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.
Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.
For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.
After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.
While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Threonine is an amino-acid. It helps hydrate the skin and has antioxidant benefits.
Our skin uses threonine for creating collagen and elastin. Humans are not able to create threonine and must get it through eating foods such as fish, lentils, poultry, sesame seeds, and more.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!